Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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Singular Impression Was Created By The Big Heap Of Vegetable Matter, Not
Unlike A Burial-Mound, From The Midst
Of which emerged the tall, straight
trunk with the fresh leaves at the top, telling the tale of a drama
Enacted in the plant world through which the tree had passed triumphantly.
My camping-place was a small clearing on the high river-bank, where I
remained two days while the goods were being transported. There had been
little rain for a few days; indeed, it is possible the dry season had
begun, and the weather was intensely hot, especially in the middle of the
day. I catalogued a number of photographic plates, but the heat in my
tent, notwithstanding the fly, made perspiration flow so freely that it
was difficult to avoid damage. Moreover, I was greatly annoyed by the
small yellow bees, which were very numerous. They clung to my face and
hair in a maddening manner, refusing to be driven away. If caught with the
fingers, they sting painfully.
The river fell more than one metre during the first night, and the Merasi
raja's party passed in their prahus at seven o'clock next morning. At
twelve our seven prahus showed up, bringing some large packages that could
easiest be spared in case anything happened. The following day the
remainder of the baggage arrived, carried on the backs of the men, and I
was glad to have all here safe and dry.
In a couple of hours we arrived in the kampong Batokelau (turtle), and
below are other rapids which, though long, are less of an obstacle. A
beautiful mountain ridge, about 1,200 metres high, through which the river
takes its course, appears toward the southeast. The population includes
fifty "doors" of Busangs, forty "doors" of Malays, and twenty of
Long-Glats. Crocodiles are known to exist here, but do not pass the rapids
above. The kapala owned a herd of forty water-buffaloes, which forage for
themselves but are given salt when they come to the kampong. When driven
to Long Iram, they fetch eighty florins each. The gables of the kapala's
house were provided with the usual ornaments representing nagah, but
without the dog's mouth. He would willingly have told me tales of
folklore, but assured me he did not know any, and pronounced Malay
indistinctly, his mouth being constantly full of sirin (betel), so I found
it useless to take down a vocabulary from him.
Continuing our journey, we successfully engineered a rapid where a
Buginese trader two weeks previously had lost his life while trying to
pass in a prahu which was upset. Afterward we had a swift and beautiful
passage in a canyon through the mountain ridge between almost
perpendicular sides, where long rows of sago-palms were the main feature,
small cascades on either side adding to the picturesqueness. At the foot
of the rapids we made camp in order to enable me to visit a small
salt-water accumulation in the jungle a couple of kilometres farther down
the river.
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