Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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At First My Preparations Seemed To Make No
Impression Whatever, But Finally, When I Was About To Divest Myself Of The
Last Of My Few Garments, They Smiled And Went Away.
This was the season for the durian fruit and we much enjoyed this
delicacy, of which Mr. A.R. Wallace, fifty years ago, wrote:
"To eat
durians is a new sensation, worth a voyage to the East to experience."
There were some superb trees seventy metres high growing not far from my
tent, and many others farther away. The people of the Mahakam do not climb
these tall trees to get the fruit, but gather them from the ground after
it has fallen. One night I heard one fall with a considerable crash.
Roughly speaking, it is of the size of a cocoanut; a large one might kill
a man and has been known to cause serious injury. It is most dangerous for
children to walk under the trees in the fruit season.
The durian is intensely appreciated by the natives, and tatu marks
representing the fruit are strikingly prominent in Central Borneo. It also
has its European devotees, though most of them take a dislike to it on
account of its strong odour, resembling that of decayed onions. On my
arrival in Batavia one of my first trips had been to the market to buy a
durian, which I brought to the hotel with anticipation of great enjoyment.
My disappointment was great, its taste being to me as offensive as its
odour. Nobody knows what a durian is like until he eats one that has been
permitted to ripen and fall to the ground. Even in Java this would be
difficult, unless one made special arrangements with the natives who bring
them to the market-places. It is popularly supposed that the durian is an
aphrodisiac, but that is not the case. Any food or fruit that one greatly
enjoys acts favourably on the digestive organs, and therefore makes one
feel in vigorous condition.
Those that were brought to me on this occasion, and which had just fallen
from the tree, were of a fresh green colour with a streak of yellow here
and there and had a pleasant, rich odour. The most satisfactory way to eat
it is with a spoon; the pulp, though rich, is not heavy, and, moreover, is
stimulating. It serves the purpose of a dessert, with a flavour and
delicacy that is indescribable and that makes one feel happy. Among the
great enjoyments of life are the various delicious fruits when really ripe
and of the best grade, but comparatively few people have that experience.
The vast majority are perfectly satisfied to eat fruit that was picked
green and matured afterward. Many years ago I tasted a real orange from
New-South-Wales, and ever since I have disdained the more acid kind.
My firmness in refusing to pay the men for more time than was necessary
produced a salutary effect upon Raja Besar.
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