Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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The Raja Began
Giving Orders About The Prahus And Behaved As If He Were At Home.
As I
remained passive he finally said that he wanted to know whether he could
go; if I preferred Lidju he would remain behind.
Not wanting a scene, and
as he was so intent on going, I gave the desired permission. Though, like
the others, he was nude except for a loin-cloth, Raja Besar was a
gentleman at heart, but he did not know how to work, especially in a
prahu. On account of his exalted position he had never been accustomed to
manual labour, but always to command. He naturally selected a place in my
prahu and seated himself at one side, which kept the boat tilted; however,
it was out of the question for any of the men to correct him. When the
prahu moved away the first thing he did was to wash his feet, next his
hands and arms, finally to rinse his mouth, and several times during the
trip the performance was repeated. He was of little assistance except
through the authority that he exerted as a great raja.
Early in the afternoon we arrived at Lulo Pakko (lulo = river; pakko =
edible fern), situated in a beautiful hilly country. The natives very
obligingly helped to make camp in the usual way. Raja Besar, who made
himself at home in the gallery of the long communal house, told me that he
wanted his "children," as he called the men, to remain until the following
day, his plan being to obtain double wages for them. With the swift
current, however, they could easily return the same day, so I said I had
no objection to their staying, but that they would receive no extra pay
for the additional time; whereupon they left without argument.
Comfortably established on the cool, spacious gallery of the large house,
I received articles they were willing to sell, had decorative designs
interpreted for me, and interviewed the more intelligent of these pleasant
Oma-Sulings. On the floor lay an admirably finished plank, which was used
as a seat; it was about four centimetres thick and nearly two metres
broad, the bark remaining on the edges. In Long Pahangei I noticed a
similar one of slightly narrower width.
The women, who were genial in their manners, came to my tent constantly to
ask for tobacco, which evidently was a great luxury with them, and
sometimes they were even troublesome. One afternoon when all was ready for
my bath, which I always take at one side of the tent opening, three young
women came and seated themselves just outside. While the natives are
always welcome and I like them, yet I was not prepared, after a hard day's
work, to relinquish my bath in order to receive a visit from even
attractive ones of the fair sex. There was simply nothing to do but to
disregard their presence. Calmly I began to take off my clothes, as if the
ladies were not there.
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