Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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On A
Visit There My Attention Was Drawn To The Unusual Size Of Its Leaves And
Its White Flowers.
I then had an interview with the Javanese who found it,
and decided that when I came to the locality I would try to secure some
specimens of this unique plant.
Having now arrived in the region, I
decided to devote a few days to looking for the orchid and at the same
time investigate a great Penihing burial cave which was found by my
predecessor.
Accompanied by two of our soldiers and with five Dayak paddlers, I
ascended the Tjehan as far as the first kiham, in the neighbourhood of
which I presumed that the burial cave would be and where, therefore,
according; to the description given to me, the orchid should be found.
There was no doubt that we were near a locality much dreaded by the
natives; even before I gave a signal to land, one of the Penihings,
recently a head-hunter, became hysterically uneasy. He was afraid of orang
mati (dead men), he said, and if we were going to sleep near them he and
his companions would be gone. The others were less perturbed, and when
assured that I did not want anybody to help me look for the dead but for a
rare plant, the agitated man, who was the leader, also became calm.
We landed, but the soldier who usually waited upon me could not be
persuaded to accompany me. All the Javanese, Malays, and Chinamen are
afraid of the dead, he said, and declined to go. Alone I climbed the steep
mountain-side; the ascent was not much over a hundred metres, but I had to
make my way between big blocks of hard limestone, vegetation being less
dense than usual. It was about four o'clock in the afternoon when, from
the top of a crest which I had reached, I suddenly discovered at no great
distance, perhaps eighty metres in front of me, a large cave at the foot
of a limestone hill. With the naked eye it was easy to distinguish a
multitude of rough boxes piled in three tiers, and on top of all a great
variety of implements and clothing which had been deposited there for the
benefit of the dead. It made a strange impression in this apparently
abandoned country where the dead are left in solitude, feared and shunned
by their former associates.
No Penihing will go to the cave of the dead except to help carry a corpse,
because many antohs are there who make people ill. The extreme silence was
interrupted only once, by the defiant cry of an argus pheasant. As the
weather was cloudy I decided to return here soon, by myself, in order to
photograph and make closer inspection of the burial-place. I then
descended to the prahu, and desiring to make camp at a sufficient distance
to keep my men in a tranquil state of mind, we went about two kilometres
down the river and found a convenient camping-place in the jungle.
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