Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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Several Men Here Had Been To New
Guinea And They Expressed No Desire To Return, Because There Had Been Much
Work, And Much Beri-Beri From Which Some Of Their Comrades Had Died.
One
of them had assisted in bringing Doctor Lorenz back after his unfortunate
fall down the ravine on Wilhelmina Top.
CHAPTER XXI
AN EXCURSION DOWN THE RIVER - LONG PAHANGEI - THE OMA-SULINGS - THE GREAT
TRIENNIAL FESTIVAL - HOSPITABLE NATIVES - INCIDENTS IN PHOTOGRAPHY
It is significant as to the relations of the tribes that not only Bukats
and Punans, but also the Saputans, are invited to take part in a great
triennial Bahau festival when given at Long Tjehan. Shortly after our
arrival we were advised that this great feast, which here is called tasa
and which lasts ten days, was to come off immediately at an Oma-Suling
kampong, Long Pahangei, further down the river.
Though a journey there might be accomplished in one day, down with the
current, three or four times as long would be required for the return.
However, as another chance to see such a festival probably would not
occur, I decided to go, leaving the sergeant, the soldier collector, and
another soldier behind, and two days later we were preparing for departure
in three prahus.
What with making light shelters against sun and rain, in Malay called
atap, usually erected for long journeys, the placing of split bamboo
sticks in the bottom of my prahu, and with the Penihings evidently
unaccustomed to such work, it was eight o'clock before the start was made.
Pani, a small tributary forming the boundary between the Penihings and the
Kayans, was soon left behind and two hours later we passed Long Blu, the
great Kayan kampong. The weather was superb and the current carried us
swiftly along. The great Mahakam River presented several fine, extensive
views, with hills on either side, thick white clouds moving slowly over
the blue sky. As soon as we entered the country of the Oma-Suling it was
pleasant to observe that the humble cottages of the ladangs had finely
carved wooden ornaments standing out from each gable.
We arrived at Long Pahangei (h pronounced as Spanish jota) early in the
afternoon. Gongs were sounding, but very few people were there, and no
visitors at all, although this was the first day of the feast. This is a
large kampong lying at the mouth of a tributary of the same name, and is
the residence of a native district kapala. After I had searched everywhere
for a quiet spot he showed me a location in a clump of jungle along the
river bank which, when cleared, made a suitable place for my tent. Our
Penihings were all eager to help, some clearing the jungle, others
bringing up the goods as well as cutting poles and bamboo sticks.
Evidently they enjoyed the work, pitching into it with much gusto and
interest. The result was a nice though limited camping place on a narrow
ridge, and I gave each man one stick of tobacco as extra payment.
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