Through Central Borneo An Account Of Two Years' Travel In The Land Of The Head-Hunters Between The Years 1913 And 1917 By Carl Lumholtz
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A German Missionary And Family Had Been Here Ten Years.
The
children looked a little pale but strong, and had never had malaria nor
children's diseases.
I soon became convinced that there was little here for me to learn. The
Dayaks have been too long exposed to Malay and European influences, though
still able to make splendid mats, for which this place is well known.
Malay ascendancy is strong on the lower courses of the two great rivers
that meet here, on the Kapuas as far as Djangkang, on the Kahayan as far
as Pahandut. I carried away mud for future zoological examination from the
bottom of a pool, ten minutes walk from the shore. There are always small
fish in it, and three or four times a year it is flooded. In dry seasons,
although not every year, the water of the sea reaches as far as Mandumei.
In Bandjermasin my attention was drawn to an interesting breed of
stump-tailed dogs which belonged to Mr. B. Brouers. The mother is a white
terrier which has but half a tail, as if cut off. When she had pups, two
had stump tails, two had long ones, and one had none; her sister has no
tail. Though the fathers are the ordinary yellowish Dayak dogs with long
tails, the breed apparently has taken nothing or next to nothing from
them. They are all white, sometimes with hardly noticeable spots of
yellow.
Nobody who has travelled in Borneo can have failed to notice the great
number of short-tailed cats. In Bandjermasin those with long tails are
very rare, and among Malays and Dayaks I do not remember ever having seen
them. They are either stub-tailed or they have a ball at the end of a tail
that is usually twisted and exceptionally short. These cats are small and
extremely tame, and can hardly be pushed away with a kick, because they
have always been used to having their own way in the house. They are more
resourceful and enterprising than the ordinary domestic cat, using their
claws to an almost incredible extent in climbing down perpendicular wooden
walls, or in running under the roof on rafters chasing mice. I have twice
photographed such cats, a liberty which they resented by striking
viciously at the man who held them and growling all the time. Their
accustomed food is rice and dried fish.
The steamship Janssens had recently reduced its already infrequent
sailings for Singapore, which caused some delay, but finally, toward the
end of March, I embarked for Sampit. I was glad to see the controleur, who
came down to the pier, for the rare occasions when steamers call here are
almost festive events, and arrangements were at once made for my journey
to Sembulo. At Pembuang we took on board the native kapala of the
district, who was to accompany me; he also brought an attendant, a cook,
and a policeman, all natives. Twelve hours later, when we arrived at the
kampong Sembulo, the kapala who came on board the Selatan informed us
that no Dayaks were there. As the lake was low and the water continued to
fall it was impossible to proceed to Bangkal, the other kampong, or to
remain here more than a few days. Therefore, at my request the native
authorities agreed to have the Bangkal Dayaks congregate here, the kapala
himself undertaking to bring them.
The population of the kampong Sembulo, formerly called Pulau Tombak, at
the present time is Malay, comprising more than two hundred full-grown
men, nearly all recent arrivals from Bandjermasin, Sampit, Pembuang, and
other places. Very little rice is planted because the soil is sandy and
unsuited to cultivation, therefore the inhabitants confine their
activities mainly to rubber gathering. At that time about a hundred men
were busy in the jungle on the opposite side, gathering white rubber,
which is plentiful in the surrounding country. They cross the lake in
their small prahus, pole them up the streams, and remain perhaps three
months in the utan working under adverse conditions. When engaged in their
pursuit they must always stand in water, which covers the ground and is
usually shallow but at times reaches to the armpit.
Four weeks previously an epidemic of beri-beri had started with a
mortality of one or two every day. When attacked by the disease they
return to the kampong but only few recover, most of them dying from one or
the other of the two forms of beri-beri. Nevertheless, the remainder
continue the work undismayed - "business going on as usual." In the tropics
life and death meet on friendly terms. "That is a sad phase of this
country," said a Briton to me in India; "you shake hands with a man to-day
and attend his funeral to-morrow."
At its deepest part the lake measures about seven metres. From May to
August, when the Pembuang River is small and the lake is low, the depth is
reduced to a metre. People then must walk far out to get water. Every
afternoon we had gales accompanied by heavy rain from the northeast,
although once it came from the southwest, and the Selatan had to put out
another anchor. I was told that similar storms are usual every afternoon
at that season (April), during which prahus do not venture out; apparently
they also occur around Sampit and arc followed by calm nights.
Eighteen Dayaks were brought here from Bangkal. Of these, nine were
Tamoan, the tribe of the region, eight Katingan, and one Teroian (or
Balok) from Upper Pembuang. They were measured, photographed, and
interviewed. One man looked astonishingly like a Japanese. The name of the
tribe, Tamoan, also pronounced Samoan, means to wash. The tatu marks are
the same as those of the Katingans. At present these natives have only six
kampongs, three of them above Sampit. Cultivating rice was very difficult,
they complained, on account of the poor soil and wet weather.
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