One Of The
Smaller Wheels I Found In A State Of Neglect And Dilapidation As
To Its Outer Case, And
Thinking it a good opportunity to discover
something as to the meaning of the system in general and of "Um
Mani
panee" in particular, I quietly abstracted the inner contents, in
full assurance that it would never be missed; that the wheel itself
would go round as merrily as ever, and that, as far as the prayers
were concerned, there were still sufficient left behind, considering
the reduced state of the monasteries, to satisfy the conscience even
of the devoutest of Lamas.[28]
As I passed out, however, a huge black dog, which was chained up in the
yard, seemed, by the rabid manner in which he made feints at my legs,
to be quite aware of what I had done, and he snapped and howled, and
strained and tore at his chain as I went by, just as if he detected
the holy bundle sticking out of my pocket, and thoroughly understood
my consequent guilty appearance. The principal designs upon the stones
here - some of which, in colour, were in wonderful preservation -
appear to be cross-legged effigies of Buddha, seated in that state
of entire abstraction from all passions and desires, which seem to
be the end and object of Buddhists' aspirations.
A certain rotundity of form, however, and appearance of
COMFORTABLENESS, rather tend to suggest that the pleasures of the
table at least have not quite been renounced among the other pomps
and vanities of Buddhist life.
AUGUST 20. - Started for Ladak again, nominally at some desperately
early hour of the morning, but in reality at about half-past five,
the sun not shining upon our position until late, in consequence of
our proximity to the mountains. Mr. Rajoo being still indisposed,
and, in his own belief, dying, we mounted him upon a hill horse,
where he looked like a fly on a dromedary. Halted for breakfast half
way, and had a hot wearisome march afterwards into Ladak, the sun
being intensely powerful, and the greater part of the journey over
a glaring desert of shifting sand and loose stones. So deep was this
in some places, that it was with difficulty we could drag our steps
along. The latter part seemed perfectly interminable, and not until
four o'clock, burnt, tired, and parched with thirst, did we reach our
old halting place. Since our departure, the Thanadar had changed his
fancy as to brandy, and now requested a bottle of vinegar. This we
promised in the event of his procuring us some tea, our stock being
low, and none other procurable without government assistance. By this
means we obtained a decorated bundle of pale-looking tea for thirteen
rupees, or 1L. 6S. The bundle contained 71/2 lbs., so that the price
was heavy enough, considering our proximity to the land of tea.
My shoe-leather being in a doubtful state, I invested in a pair of the
sheepskin Chino-Esquimaux ones of local manufacture, but soon found
that the old saw of "nothing like leather" was quite a fallacy, when
the leather savoured so strongly of mutton as that composing my new
boots did.
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