I bathed twice at the point assigned to the passage of the
Israelites, and the second time that I did so I chose the time of
low water and tried to walk across, but I soon found myself out of
my depth, or at least in water so deep, that I could only advance
by swimming.
The dromedary, which had bolted in the Desert, was brought into
Suez the day after my arrival, but my pelisse and my pistols, which
had been attached to the saddle, had disappeared. These articles
were treasures of great importance to me at that time, and I moved
the Governor of the town to make all possible exertions for their
recovery. He acceded to my wishes as well as he could, and very
obligingly imprisoned the first seven poor fellows he could lay his
hands on.
At first the Governor acted in the matter from no other motive than
that of courtesy to an English traveller, but afterwards, and when
he saw the value which I set upon the lost property, he pushed his
measures with a degree of alacrity and heat, which seemed to show
that he felt a personal interest in the matter. It was supposed
either that he expected a large present in the event of succeeding,
or that he was striving by all means to trace the property, in
order that he might lay his hands on it after my departure.
I went out sailing for some hours, and when I returned I was
horrified to find that two men had been bastinadoed by order of the
Governor, with a view to force them to a confession of their theft.
It appeared, however, that there really was good ground for
supposing them guilty, since one of the holsters was actually found
in their possession. It was said too (but I could hardly believe
it), that whilst one of the men was undergoing the bastinado, his
comrade was overheard encouraging him to bear the torment without
peaching. Both men, if they had the secret, were resolute in
keeping it, and were sent back to their dungeon. I of course took
care that there should be no repetition of the torture, at least so
long as I remained at Suez.
The Governor was a thorough Oriental, and until a comparatively
recent period had shared in the old Mahometan feeling of contempt
for Europeans. It happened however, one day that an English gun-
brig had appeared off Suez, and sent her boats ashore to take in
fresh water. Now fresh water at Suez is a somewhat scarce and
precious commodity: it is kept in tanks, the chief of which is at
some distance from the place. Under these circumstances the
request for fresh water was refused, or at all events, was not
complied with. The captain of the brig was a simple-minded man
with a strongish will, and he at once declared that if his casks
were not filled in three hours, he would destroy the whole place.
"A great people indeed!" said the Governor; "a wonderful people,
the English!" He instantly caused every cask to be filled to the
brim from his own tank, and ever afterwards entertained for the
English a degree of affection and respect, for which I felt
infinitely indebted to the gallant captain.
The day after the abortive attempt to extract a confession from the
prisoners, the Governor, the consul, and I sat in council, I know
not how long, with a view of prosecuting the search for the stolen
goods. The sitting, considered in the light of a criminal
investigation, was characteristic of the East. The proceedings
began as a matter of course by the prosecutor's smoking a pipe and
drinking coffee with the Governor, who was judge, jury, and
sheriff. I got on very well with him (this was not my first
interview), and he gave me the pipe from his lips in testimony of
his friendship. I recollect, however, that my prime adviser,
thinking me, I suppose, a great deal too shy and retiring in my
manner, entreated me to put up my boots and to soil the Governor's
divan, in order to inspire respect and strike terror. I thought it
would be as well for me to retain the right of respecting myself,
and that it was not quite necessary for a well-received guest to
strike any terror at all.
Our deliberations were assisted by the numerous attendants who
lined the three sides of the room not occupied by the divan. Any
one of these who took it into his head to offer a suggestion would
stand forward and humble himself before the Governor, and then
state his views; every man thus giving counsel was listened to with
some attention.
After a great deal of fruitless planning the Governor directed that
the prisoners should be brought in. I was shocked when they
entered, for I was not prepared to see them come CARRIED into the
room upon the shoulders of others. It had not occurred to me that
their battered feet would be too sore to bear the contact of the
floor. They persisted in asserting their innocence. The Governor
wanted to recur to the torture, but that I prevented, and the men
were carried back to their dungeon.
A scheme was now suggested by one of the attendants which seemed to
me childishly absurd, but it was nevertheless tried. The plan was
to send a man to the prisoners, who was to make them believe that
he had obtained entrance into their dungeon upon some other
pretence, but that he had in reality come to treat with them for
the purchase of the stolen goods. This shallow expedient of course
failed.
The Governor himself had not nominally the power of life and death
over the people in his district, but he could if he chose send them
to Cairo, and have them hanged there.
