Neither The Pasha Nor
The Sharif Would, In These Days, Dare To Enforce, In The Case Of An
Englishman, The Old Law, A Choice Thrice Offered Between Circumcision
And Death.
But the first Badawi who caught sight of the Frank’s hat would
not deem himself a man if he did not drive a bullet through the wearer’s
head.
At the pilgrimage season disguise is easy on account of the vast
and varied multitudes which visit Meccah exposing the traveller only to
“stand the buffet with knaves who smell of sweat.” But woe to the
unfortunate who happens to be recognised in public as an Infidel—unless
at least he could throw himself at once upon the protection of the
government.[FN#18] Amidst, however, a crowd of pilgrims, whose
fanaticism is worked up to the highest pitch, detection would probably
ensure his dismissal at once al numero de’ piu. Those who find danger the
salt of pleasure may visit Meccah; but if asked whether the results
justify the risk, I should reply in the negative. And the Vice-Consul
at Jeddah would only do his duty in peremptorily forbidding European
travellers to attempt Meccah without disguise, until the day comes when
such steps can be taken in the certainty of not causing a mishap;
[p.241] an accident would not redound to our reputation, as we could
not in justice revenge it.[FN#19]
On the 14th Zu’l Hijjah we started to perform the rite of Umrah, or
Little Pilgrimage. After performing ablution, and resuming the Ihram
with the usual ceremonies, I set out, accompanied by the boy Mohammed
and his brother Abdullah. Mounting asses which resembled mules in size
and speed,[FN#20] we rode to the Harim, and prayed there. Again
remounting, we issued through the Bab al-Safa towards the open country
north-east of the city. The way was crowded with pilgrims, on foot as
well as mounted, and their loud Labbayk distinguished those engaged in
the Umrah rite from the many whose business was with the camp of the
Damascus Caravan. At about half a mile from the city we passed on the
left a huge heap of stones, where my companions stood and cursed. This
grim-looking cairn is popularly believed to note the place of the well
where Abu Lahab laid an ambuscade for the Prophet. This wicked uncle
stationed there a slave, with orders to throw headlong into the pit the
first person who
[p.242] approached him, and privily persuaded his nephew to visit the
spot at night: after a time, anxiously hoping to hear that the deed had
been done, Abu Lahab incautiously drew nigh, and was precipitated by
his own bravo into the place of destruction.[FN#21] Hence the
well-known saying in Islam, “Whoso diggeth a well for his brother shall
fall into it himself.” We added our quota of stones,[FN#22] and
proceeding, saw the Jeddah road spanning the plain like a white ribbon.
In front of us the highway was now lined with coffee-tents, before
which effeminate dancing-boys performed to admiring Syrians; a small
whitewashed “Bungalow,” the palace of the Emir al-Hajj, lay on the left,
and all around it clustered the motley encampment of his pilgrims.
After cantering about three miles from the city, we reached the
Alamayn, or two pillars that limit the Sanctuary; and a little beyond
it is the small settlement popularly called Al-Umrah.[FN#23]
Dismounting here, we
[p.243] sat down on rugs outside a coffee-tent to enjoy the beauty of
the moonlit night, and an hour of Kayf, in the sweet air of the Desert.
Presently the coffee-tent keeper, after receiving payment, brought us
water for ablution. This preamble over, we entered the principal
chapel; an unpretending building, badly lighted, spread with dirty
rugs, full of pilgrims, and offensively close. Here we prayed the Isha,
or night devotions, and then a two-bow prayer in honour of the
Ihram,[FN#24] after which we distributed gratuities to the guardians,
and alms to the importunate beggars. And now I perceived the object of
Abdullah’s companionship. The melancholy man assured me that he had
ridden out for love of me, and in order to perform as Wakil
(substitute) a vicarious pilgrimage for my parents. Vainly I assured
him that they had been strict in the exercises of their faith. He would
take no denial, and I perceived that love of me meant love of my
dollars. With a surly assent, he was at last permitted to act for the
“pious pilgrim Yusuf (Joseph) bin Ahmad and Fatimah bint Yunus,”—my
progenitors. It was impossible to prevent smiling at contrasts, as
Abdullah, gravely raising his hands, and directing his face to the
Ka’abah, intoned, “I do vow this Ihram of Umrah in the name of Yusuf Son of
Ahmad, and Fatimah Daughter of Yunus; then render it attainable unto
them, and accept it of them! Bismillah! Allaho Akbar!”
[p.244] Remounting, we galloped towards Meccah, shouting Labbayk, and
halting at every half-mile to smoke and drink coffee. In a short time
we entered the city, and repairing to the Harim by the Safa Gate,
performed the Tawaf, or circumambulation of Umrah. After this dull
round and necessary repose we left the temple by the same exit, and
mounting once more, turned towards Al-Safa, which stands about a
hundred yards South-East of the Mosque, and as little deserves its name
of “Mountain” as do those that undulate the face of modern Rome. The Safa
end is closed by a mean-looking building, composed of three round
arches, with a dwarf flight of stairs leading up to them out of a
narrow road. Without dismounting, we wheeled our donkeys[FN#25] round,
“left shoulders forward,” no easy task in the crowd, and, vainly striving
to sight the Ka’abah through the Bab al-Safa, performed the Niyat, or vow
of the rite Al-Sai, or the running.[FN#26] After Tahlil, Takbir, and
Talbiyat, we raised our hands in the supplicatory position, and twice
repeated,[FN#27] “There is no god but Allah, Alone, without Partner; His
is the Kingdom, unto Him be Praise; He giveth Life and Death, He is
alive and perisheth not; in His Hand is Good, and He over all Things is
Omnipotent.” Then, with the donkey-boys leading our animals and a stout
fellow preceding us with lantern and a quarter-staff to keep off the
running Badawin, camel-men, and riders of asses, we descended Safa, and
walked slowly down the street Al-Massa, towards Marwah.[FN#28]
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