Departure From Cairo Found Necessary, 140 A
Display Of Respectability, 141 Shaykh Nassar, The Badawi, 141 Hasty
Departure From Cairo, 142 The Desert, 144, Et Seq.
The midnight halt,
154 Resumes the march, 154 Rests among a party of Maghrabi pilgrims,
156 Adventure on entering Suez, 159 An uncomfortable night, 159
Interview with the governor of Suez, 160 Description of the pilgrim’s
fellow-travellers at Suez, 161, et seq.
Advantages of making a loan,
165 Suspicion awakened by a sextant, 166 Passports a source of trouble,
168 Kindness of Mr. West, 169 Preparations for the voyage from Suez,
172 Society at the George Inn, 172 The pilgrim-ship, 186 A battle with
the Maghrabis, 191 Leaves Suez, 194 Course of the vessel, 195 Halts
near the Hammam Bluffs, 197 The “Golden Wire” aground, 200 Re-embarkation,
201 Reaches Tur, 201 Visits Moses’ Hot Baths, 203 Leaves Tur, 207 Effects
of a thirty-six hours’ sail, 209 Makes Damghah anchorage, 213 Enters Wijh
Harbour, 214 Sails for Jabal Hassani, 217 Nearly wrecked, 219 Makes
Jabal Hassani, 220 Wounds his foot, 221 The halt at Yambu’, 225 Bargains
for camels, 230 An evening party at Yambu’, 232 Personates an Arab, 234
His Hamail or pocket Koran, 239 Departure from Yambu’, 241 The Desert,
242 The halting-ground, 244 Resumes the march, 244 Alarm of [p.428]
“Harami” or thieves, 249 Reaches Bir Sa’id, 251 Encamps at Al-Hamra, 253
Visits the village, 254 A comfortless day there, 255 Attempt of the
Badawin to levy blackmail, 261 Encamps at Bir Abbas, 264 A forced halt,
271 Prepares to mount and march, 272 Scene in the Shuab al-Hajj, 273
Arrives at Shuhada, 274 The favourite halting-place, Bir al-Hindi, 274
Reaches Suwaykah, 275 Has a final dispute with Sa’ad the Demon, 276
Disappearance of the camel-men, 277 First view of the city of
Al-Madinah, 279 Poetical exclamations and enthusiasm of the pilgrims,
280 Stays at the house of Shaykh Hamid, 288 The visitors and children
there, 291 The style of living at Al-Madinah, 296 View from the majlis’
windows, 297 Visits the Prophet’s tomb, 304 Expensiveness of the visit,
331 Reasons for doubting that the Prophet’s remains are deposited in the
Hijrah, 339.
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