“All The Pilgrims Hold It To Be Their Great Duty Well To Improve Their
Time Whilst They Are At Mecca,
Not to do their accustomed duty and
devotion in the temple, but to spend all their leisure time there, and
As far as strength will permit to continue at Towoaf, i.e. to walk
round the Beat-Allah, which is about four and twenty paces square. At
one corner of the Beat, there is a black stone fastened and framed in
with silver plate,[FN#11] and every time they come to that corner, they
kiss the stone; and having gone round seven times they perform two
Erkaets-nomas, or prayers. This stone, they say, was formerly white,
and then it was called Haggar Essaed, i.e. the White Stone.[FN#12] But
by reason of the sins of the multitudes of people who kiss it, it is
become black, and is now called Haggar Esswaed, or the Black Stone.
“This place is so much frequented by people going round it, that the
place of the Towoaf, i.e. the circuit which they take in going round
it, is seldom void of people at any time of the day or night.[FN#13]
Many have waited several weeks, nay months, for the opportunity of
finding it so. For they say, that if any person is blessed with such an
opportunity, that for his or her zeal in keeping up the honour of
Towoaf, let they petition what they will at the Beat-Allah, they shall
be answered. Many will walk round
[p.364] till they are quite weary, then rest, and at it again;
carefully remembering at the end of every seventh time to perform two
Erkaets. This Beat is in effect the object of their devotion, the idol
which they adore: for, let them be never so far distant from it, East,
West, North, or South of it, they will be sure to bow down towards it;
but when they are at the Beat, they may go on which side they please
and pay their Sallah towards it.[FN#14] Sometimes there are several
hundreds at Towoaf at once, especially after Acshamnomas, or fourth
time of service, which is after candle-lighting (as you heard before),
and these both men and women, but the women walk on the outside the
men, and the men nearest to the Beat. In so great a resort as this, it
is not to be supposed that every individual person can come to kiss the
stone afore-mentioned; therefore, in such a case, the lifting up the
hands towards it, smoothing down their faces, and using a short
expression of devotion, as Allah-waick barick, i.e. Blessed God, or
Allah cabor, i.e. Great God, some such like; and so passing by it till
opportunity of kissing it offers, is thought sufficient.[FN#15] But
when there are but few men at Towoaf, then the women get opportunity to
kiss the said stone, and when they have gotten it, they close in with
it as they come round, and walk round as quick as they can to come to
it again, and keep possession of it for a considerable time.
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