Personal Narrative Of A Pilgrimage To Al-Madinah & Meccah - Volume 2 of 2 - By Captain Sir Richard F. Burton





























 -  Here
two towers are now erected.
[FN#26] This is the open ground leading to the Muna Pass.
[FN#27 - Page 238
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Here Two Towers Are Now Erected. [FN#26] This Is The Open Ground Leading To The Muna Pass. [FN#27] An Error.

The sacrifice is performed at Muna, not on Arafat, the mountain here alluded to. [FN#28] The material is

A close grey granite. [FN#29] The form of the building has now been changed. [FN#30] The Meccans have a tradition concerning it, that it is derived from Baghdad. [FN#31] Moslems who are disposed to be facetious on serious subjects, often remark that it is a mystery why Allah should have built his house in a spot so barren and desolate. [FN#32] This is still correct. Suez supplies Jeddah with corn and other provisions. [FN#33] A prodigious exaggeration. Burckhardt enumerates twenty. The principal gates are seventeen in number. In the old building they were more numerous. Jos. Pitt says, “it hath about forty-two doors to enter into it;—not so much, I think, for necessity, as figure; for in some places they are close by one another.” [FN#34] Bartema alludes, probably, to the Bab al-Ziyadah, in the northern enceinte. [FN#35] I saw nothing of the kind, though constantly in the Harim at Meccah. [FN#36] “The Ka’abah is an oblong massive structure, 18 paces in length, 14 in breadth, and from 35 to 40 feet in height.” (Burckhardt, vol. i. p. 248.) My measurements, concerning which more hereafter, gave 18 paces in breadth, and 22 in length. [FN#37] In ancient times possibly it was silk: now, it is of silk and cotton mixed. [FN#38] These are the brazen rings which serve to fasten the lower edge of the Kiswah, or covering. [FN#39] A true description of the water of the well Zemzem. [FN#40] There is great confusion in this part of Bartema’s narrative. On the 9th of Zu’l Hijjah, the pilgrims leave Mount Arafat. On the 10th, many hasten into Meccah, and enter the Ka’abah. They then return to the valley of Muna, where their tents are pitched and they sacrifice the victims. On the 12th, the tents are struck, and the pilgrims re-enter Meccah. [FN#41] This well describes the wretched state of the poor “Takruri,” and other Africans, but it attributes to them an unworthy motive. I once asked a learned Arab what induced the wretches to rush upon destruction, as they do, when the Faith renders pilgrimage obligatory only upon those who can afford necessaries for the way. “By Allah,” he replied, “there is fire within their hearts, which can be quenched only at God’s House, and at His Prophet’s Tomb.” [FN#42] Bartema alludes to the “Day of Arafat,” 9th of Zu’l Hijjah, which precedes, not follows, the “Day of Sacrifice.” [FN#43] Bartema alludes to the “Shaytan al-Kabir,” the “great devil,” as the buttress at Al-Muna is called. His account of Satan’s appearance is not strictly correct. Most Moslems believe that Abraham threw the stone at the “Rajim,”—the lapidated one; but there are various traditions upon the subject. [FN#44] A Christian version of an obscure Moslem legend about a white dove alighting on the Prophet’s shoulder, and appearing to whisper in his ear whilst he was addressing a congregation.

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