They were seated upon
coarse wooden saddles, without cushions or stirrups, a fine
saddle-cloth alone denoting a
[p.142] chief. The women emulated the men; they either guided their own
dromedaries, or, sitting in pillion, they clung to their husbands;
veils they disdained, and their countenances certainly belonged not to
a “soft sex.” These Wahhabis were by no means pleasant companions. Most of
them were followed by spare dromedaries, either unladen or carrying
water-skins, fodder, fuel, and other necessaries for the march. The
beasts delighted in dashing furiously through our file, which being
lashed together, head and tail, was thrown each time into the greatest
confusion. And whenever we were observed smoking, we were cursed aloud
for Infidels and Idolaters.
Looking back at Al-Zaribah, soon after our departure, I saw a heavy
nimbus settle upon the hill-tops, a sheet of rain being stretched
between it and the plain. The low grumbling of thunder sounded joyfully
in our ears. We hoped for a shower, but were disappointed by a
dust-storm, which ended with a few heavy drops. There arose a report
that the Badawin had attacked a party of Meccans with stones, and the
news caused men to look exceeding grave.
At five P.M. we entered the wide bed of the Fiumara, down which we were
to travel all night.
