[P.244] Remounting, we galloped towards Meccah, shouting Labbayk, and
halting at every half-mile to smoke and drink coffee.
In a short time
we entered the city, and repairing to the Harim by the Safa Gate,
performed the Tawaf, or circumambulation of Umrah. After this dull
round and necessary repose we left the temple by the same exit, and
mounting once more, turned towards Al-Safa, which stands about a
hundred yards South-East of the Mosque, and as little deserves its name
of “Mountain” as do those that undulate the face of modern Rome. The Safa
end is closed by a mean-looking building, composed of three round
arches, with a dwarf flight of stairs leading up to them out of a
narrow road. Without dismounting, we wheeled our donkeys[FN#25] round,
“left shoulders forward,” no easy task in the crowd, and, vainly striving
to sight the Ka’abah through the Bab al-Safa, performed the Niyat, or vow
of the rite Al-Sai, or the running.[FN#26] After Tahlil, Takbir, and
Talbiyat, we raised our hands in the supplicatory position, and twice
repeated,[FN#27] “There is no god but Allah, Alone, without Partner; His
is the Kingdom, unto Him be Praise; He giveth Life and Death, He is
alive and perisheth not; in His Hand is Good, and He over all Things is
Omnipotent.” Then, with the donkey-boys leading our animals and a stout
fellow preceding us with lantern and a quarter-staff to keep off the
running Badawin, camel-men, and riders of asses, we descended Safa, and
walked slowly down the street Al-Massa, towards Marwah.[FN#28]
[p.245] During our descent we recited aloud, “O Allah, cause me to act
according to the Sunnat of Thy Prophet, and to die in His faith, and
defend me from errors and disobedience by Thy Mercy, O most Merciful of
the Merciful!” Arrived at what is called the Batn al-Wady (Belly of the
Vale), a place now denoted by the Milayn al-Akhzarayn (the two green
pillars[FN#29]), one fixed in the Eastern course of the Harim, the
other in a house on the right side,[FN#30] we began the running by
urging on our beasts. Here the prayer was, “O Lord, pardon and pity, and
pass over what Thou knowest, for Thou art the most dear and the most
generous! Save us from Hell-fire safely, and cause us safely to enter
Paradise! O Lord, give us Happiness here and Happiness hereafter, and
spare us the Torture of the Flames!” At the end of this supplication we
had passed the Batn, or lowest ground, whose farthest limits were
marked by two other pillars.[FN#31] Again we began to ascend,
repeating, as we went, “Verily, Safa and Marwah are two of the Monuments
of Allah. Whoso, therefore, pilgrimeth to the Temple of Meccah, or
performeth Umrah, it shall be no Crime in him (to run between them
both). And as for him who voluntarily doeth a good Deed, verily Allah
is Grateful and Omniscient[FN#32]!” At length we reached Marwah, a little
rise like Safa in the lower slope of Abu Kubays.
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