, On
account of the eagerness with which the wild swine feed upon it, they
are therefore obliged to grow a less esteemed sort, with six rows of
grains, called Shayr Kheshaby [Arabic], which the swine do not touch. At
three quarters of an hour from the spot where we began to ascend, we
came to a spring called Ain el Khan, near a Khan called El Akabe, where
caravans sometimes alight; this being the great road from the Djolan and
the northern parts of the Haouran to the Ghor. Akabe is a general term
for a steep descent. In one hour we passed a spring called Ain el Akabe,
more copious than the former. From thence we reached the summit of the
mountain, one hour and a quarter distant from its foot, where the plain
commences; and in one hour and three quarters more, entered the village
of Feik, distant about four hours and a half from Szammagh, by the road
we travelled.
One hour to the E. of Szammagh, on the shore of the lake, lies the
village Kherbet Szammera [Arabic], with some ancient buildings: it is
the only inhabited village on the E. side of the lake, its
[p.279]site seems to correspond with that of the ancient Hippos. Farther
north, near the shore, are the ruined places called Doeyrayan [Arabic],
and Telhoun [Arabic]. Three quarters of an hour to the N. of Khan el
Akabe, near the summit of the mountain, lies, the half ruined, but still
inhabited village of Kefer Hareb [Arabic].
The country to the north of the Sheriat, in the direction of Feik, is,
for a short distance, intersected by Wadys, a plain then commences,
extending northwards towards the Djebel Heish el Kanneytra, and
eastwards towards the Haouran.
Feik is a considerable village, inhabited by more than two hundred
families. It is situated at the head of the Wady of the same name, on
the ridge of a part of the mountain which incloses the E. shore of the
lake of Tabaria, and it enjoys a fine view over the middle part of the
lake. The rivulet of Feik has three sources, issuing from beneath a
precipice, round the summit of which the village is built in the shape
of a crescent. Having descended the hill for three quarters of an hour,
a steep insulated hill is met with, having extensive ruins of buildings,
walls, and columns on its top; they are called El Hossn, and are,
perhaps, the remains of the ancient town of Regaba or Argob.
Feik [Arabic], although situated in the plain of Djolan, does not
[p.280]actually belong to that district, but constitutes a territory of
itself; it forms part of the government of Akka, and is, I believe, the
only place belonging to that Pashalik on the E. side of the Jordan; it
was separated from the Pashalik of Damascus by Djezzar Pasha. There
being a constant passage through Feik from the Haouran to Tabaria and
Akka, more than thirty houses in the town have open Menzels for the
entertainment of strangers of every description, and supply their
cattle, gratis. The landlords have an allowance from the government for
their expenses, which is made by a deduction from the customary taxes;
and if the Menzel is much frequented, as in the case of that of the
Sheikh, no Miri at all is collected from the landlord, and the Pasha
makes him also an yearly allowance in money, out of the Miri of the
village. The establishment of these public Menzels, which are general
over the whole country to the S. of Damascus, does great honour to the
hospitable spirit of the Turks; but it is, in fact, the only expense
that the government thinks itself obliged to incur for the benefit of
the people of the country. A peasant can travel for a whole month
without expending a para; but people of any distinction give a few paras
on the morning of their departure to the waiter or watchman [Arabic]. If
the traveller does not choose to alight at a public Menzel, he may go to
any private house, where he will find a hospitable landlord, and as good
a supper as the circumstances of his host can afford.
I observed upon the terraces of all the houses of Feik, a small
apartment called Hersh [Arabic], formed of branches of trees, covered
with mats; to this cool abode the family retires during the mid-day
heats of summer. There are a few remains of ancient buildings at Feik;
amongst others, two small towers on the two extremities of the cliff.
The village has large olive plantations.
May 7th.--Our way over the plain was in the direction N.E. by E.
DISTRICT OF DJOLAN.
[p.281]Beyond the fields of Feik, the district of Djolan begins, the
southern limits of which are the Wady Hamy Sakker, and the Sheriat.
Djolan appears to be the same name as the Greek Gaulanitis; but its
present limits do not quite correspond with those of the ancient
province, which was confined to a narrow strip of land along the lake,
and the eastern shore of the Jordan. The territory of Feik must have
formed part of Hippene; the mountain in front of it was mount Hippos,
and the district of Argob appears to have been that part of the plain
(making part of Djolan), which extends from Feik northwards for three or
four hours, and which is enclosed on the east by the Djebel Heish, and
on the west by the descent leading down to the banks of the lake.
Half an hour from Feik we passed, on our left, a heap of ruins called
Radjam el Abhar [Arabic]. To the S.E. at about one hour distant, is the
village Djeibein [Arabic]; to the left, at three quarters of an hour, is
the ruined village El Aal [Arabic], on the side of the Wady Semak
[Arabic], which descended from the Djebel Heish:
