Here are the ruins of a temple, built with
much smaller stones than any I had observed in the construction of
buildings of a similar size in the Haouran. On the four outer corners
were Corinthian pilasters. At one hour and a quarter, road S. we entered
the wood of oak-trees, which is continued along the western declivity of
the Djebel. One hour and a half, in the wood, we passed the Wady Dyab
[Arabic], coming from the mountain. One hour and three quarters, passed
Wady Kefr el Laha [Arabic]. At the end of two hours we reached Aatyl
[Arabic], a small Druse village in the midst of the wood. Here are the
remains of two handsome temples; that which is on the N. side, is in
complete ruins; it consisted of a square building, with a high arch
across its roof; two niches were on each side of the gate, and in front
of it a portico of columns, the number of which it is impossible to
determine, the ground being covered by a heap of fragments of columns,
architraves, and large square stones. This temple is called El Kaszr.
From a small stone in its precincts I copied the following letters:
[Greek].
On the outside wall of the temple is the following inscription in
remarkably fine characters.
[Greek].
On the S.E. side of Aatyl stands the other temple, which is of small
dimensions but of elegant construction. It has a portico of two
[p.223]columns and two pilasters, each of which has a projecting base
for a statue, elevated from the ground about one-third of the height of
the column, like the pillars of the great colonnade at Palmyra. The
columns are Corinthian, but not of the best time of that order. The
interior of the temple consists of an apartment with several arches
without any ornaments; but the gate is covered with sculpture. The two
pilasters forming the portico have inscriptions on their bases. On the
one is this:
[Greek].
Near the other pilaster is an inscription upon two broken stones, lying
near each other; these stones appear to have been formerly joined, and
to have formed part of the base of the pilaster, and the inscription
seems to have been a copy of the former. Upon the one I read:
[Greek].
and upon the other:
[Greek]
[p.224] [Greek].
Near the temple I saw a bas-relief about ten inches square, representing
a female bust, with hair in ringlets, falling upon the shoulders; it was
lying on the ground; but it was not of such workmanship as to tempt me
to take it with me. Upon the wall of one of the largest houses in the
village was a long inscription; but too high for me to read.
N.E. of Aatyl, about one hour, up in the mountain, is a ruined tower
called Berdj Mabroum [Arabic].
The tobacco of Aatyl is preferred to that of any other part of the
Haouran. I here saw a public woman, a Kahirene, who seemed to be kept at
the expense of the whole village; I was surprised at this, for manners
in the Haouran are generally almost as pure as among the Bedouins:
public women are not suffered, and adultery is punished by the death of
the woman, while the man is ruined by the heavy penalties exacted by the
government in expiation of his guilt. Last year a married Turkish woman
at Mohadje, a village in the Loehf, was caught in the embraces of a
young Christian; her three brothers hastened to the spot, dragged her to
the market place, and there in the presence of the whole community, cut
her in pieces with their swords, loading her at the same time with the
most horrible imprecations. The lover was fined ten purses.
From Aatyl I pursued my way one hour and a quarter S.S.E. to Soueida, at
a short distance from which are the remains of an ancient road. As I had
examined the antiquities of this village in 1810, and did not wish to be
seen here a second time, I passed on without stopping, in the direction
of Aaere, which is two hours and a half distant in a south-westerly
direction. In the plain, and at a quarter of an hour to the west of
Soueida, is the ruined convent
AAERE.
[p.225] Deir Senan [Arabic]. There is only a small Kurdine village in
the road between Soueida and Aaere.
April 26th.--I remained this day at Aaere, in the house of the Druse
chief the Sheikh Shybely Ibn Hamdan, where I alighted. The Sheikh
appeared to be greatly pleased at my reappearance. Since my former
visit, I had cultivated his friendship by letters and presents, which I
had sent to him from Aleppo, and by which he was so much gratified, that
he would have loaded me with presents in return, had I not thought
proper to decline every thing of that kind, contenting myself with some
very strong letters of recommendation from him to the authorities in
those places which I intended to visit. Shybely is the kindest and most
generous Turk I have known in Syria: and his reputation for these
qualities has become so general, that peasants from all parts of the
Haouran settle in his village. The whole of the Christian community of
Soueida, with the Greek priest at their head, had lately arrived, so
that Aaere has now become one of the most populous villages in this
district. The high estimation in which the Sheikh is held arises from
his great hospitality, and the justice and mildness with which he treats
the peasants, upwards of forty of whom he feeds daily, besides
strangers, who are continually passing here in their way to the Bedouin
encampments; the coffee pot is always boiling in the Menzoul or
stranger's room.
![Travels In Syria And The Holy Land By John Lewis Burckhardt
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AATYL.
[p.222]they feel no repugnance at quitting the place of their birth. In
one hour we passed Seleim - Page 77](../images/travel.jpg)
