The
construction shews that the edifices were of different ages, as in the
other cities of the Decapolis, which I have examined.
I am sensible that the above description of Amman, though it notices all
the principal remains, is still very imperfect; but a traveller who is
not accompanied with an armed force can never hope to give very
satisfactory accounts of the antiquities of these deserted countries. My
guides had observed some fresh horse-dung near the water’s side, which
greatly alarmed them, as it was a proof that
SZAFOUT
[p.361] some Bedouins were hovering about. They insisted upon my
returning immediately, and refusing to wait for me a moment, rode off
while I was still occupied in writing a few notes upon the theatre. I
hastily mounted the castle hill, ran over its ruins, and galloping after
my guides, joined them at half an hour from the town. When I reproached
them for their cowardice, they replied that I certainly could not
suppose that, for the twelve piastres I had agreed to give them, they
should expose themselves to the danger of being stripped and of losing
their horses, from a mere foolish caprice of mine to write down the
stones. I have often been obliged to yield to similar reasoning. A true
Bedouin, however, never abandons his companion in this manner; whoever,
therefore, wishes to travel in these parts, and to make accurate
observations, will do well to take with him as many horsemen as may
secure him against any strolling party of robbers.
About four or five bours S.S.W. from Amman are the ruins called El Kohf
(Arabic), with a large temple, and many columns. About eight hours
S.S.E. is the ruined city of Om el Reszasz (Arabic), i.e. the Mother of
Lead, which, according to all accounts, is of great extent, and contains
large buildings. In my present situation it was impossible for me to
visit these two places. I hope that some future traveller will be more
fortunate.
We returned from Amman by a more northern route. At one hour and three
quarters, we passed the ruined place called Djebeyha (Arabic); in two
hours the ruins of Meraze (Arabic). The hills which rise over the plain
are covered to their tops with thick heath. At two hours and a half are
the ruins of Om Djouze (Arabic), with a spring. Sources of water are
seldom met with in this upper plain of the Belka, a circumstance that
greatly enhances the importance of the situation of Amman. At three
hours and a half is
SZALT
[p.362] Szafout (Arabic), where are ruins of some extent, with a spring;
the gate of a public edifice is still standing.
