The Djebel Heish,
Which Continues Its Southerly Course To The W. Of The Hadj Route,
Changes Its Name In The Latitude Of Fedhein Into That Of Djebel Belka
[Arabic].
To the east of Fedhein the Djebel Haouran terminates, not far
to the North of Boszra.
At one day’s journey from where the mountain
finishes lies the village of Szalkhat [Arabic]. From Fedhein to the
south-east the plain is uncultivated, and without habitations.
6. The castle of Zerka [Arabic] is at one day’s journey from Fedhein.
The Hadj rests here one day, during which the Hadjis amuse themselves
with hunting the wild boars which are found in great numbers on the
reedy banks of Wady Zerka. The castle is built in a low Wady which forms
in winter-time the bed of a river of considerable size, called Naher
Ezzerka [Arabic], whose waters collect to the south of Djebel Haouran.
In summer time the Wady to the E. of the castle has no water in it, but
to the west, where there are some sources, the river is never completely
dried up. It then enters the Djebel Belka and empties itself into the
Sheriat el Kebir. The Pasha of Damascus has an Aga in the castle, who is
always an Arab of the tribe of Ehteim [Arabic], part of whom live in
tents round the castle and sow the ground. They have plenty of grapes,
and sow Dhourra and wheat.
7. One day’s journey is Kalaat el Belka [Arabic]. The name of Kalaat, or
castle, is given on the Hadj route, and over the greater part of the
desert, to any building walled in, and covered, and having, like a Khan,
a large court-yard in its enclosure. The walls are sometimes of stone,
but more commonly of earth, though even the latter are sufficient to
withstand an [p.658] attack of Arabs. The castle of Belka has a large
Birket of rain-water. Its commander or Odabashi is always chosen from
among the Janissaries of Damascus. It serves the Arabs of the Djebel
Belka as a depot for their provisions. To the west of the castle the
mountain of Belka terminates. The Arabs of Belka live in tents round the
castle, and are Felahein or cultivators of the ground.
8. One day’s journey from the latter is the Kalaat el Katrane [Arabic],
whose Odabashi is likewise a Janissary from Damascus. It has a Birket of
rainwater. At one day’s journey to the N.W. of it is the Kalaat Kerek
[Arabic], from whence the Arabs of Kerek bring wheat and barley for sale
to the Odabashi of Katrane, who sells it again to advantage to the
Hadjis.
9. One day’s journey Kalaat el Hassa, [Arabic], with a fine source,
whose water is drawn up by means of a large wheel. The castle is built
in the middle of a Wady running from E. to W.; in the winter a river
runs through the Wady, which is dry in summer; but at a quarter of an
hour W. from the castle, there are several springs of good water, which
are never dry. They collect into a river which empties itself into the
Jordan or Sheriat el Kebir at two days’ journey from El Hassa. The
Fellahs who live round the castle in the Wady, in several small
villages, sow Dhourra and barley, those that live towards the western
mountains, sow for their masters the El Hadjaia Arabs [Arabic], and
receive from them half of the harvest in return. To the S.E. of El
Hassa, on the northern side of the Wady, about five hours distance from
El Hassa, is a high hill, called Shehak [Arabic], which is visible from
Masn and Akaba. At the same distance due east from El Hassa is a
watering place called Meshash el Rekban [Arabic], where water is found
on digging to a small depth. To the S. of Wady el Hassa, in the Djebel
Shera, is the town of Tafyle. South of it the Shera spreads into four or
five branches, and embraces the whole country as far as Djebel Tor. At
two days journey from Wady el Hassa, is a road leading along the summit
of the mountain towards Gaza; this road is called Akaba, or more
frequently Eddhohel [Arabic]; it is much frequented by the people of
Tafyle and the Arabs Toueiha.
10. Half a day’s journey is Kalaat Aeneze [Arabic], with a Birket of
rain-water.
11. Another half day’s journey Kalaat Maan [Arabic], where the Hadjis
remain for two days. Maan has a large well of water. The town consists
of about one hundred houses on both sides the Hadj route, which divides
the town; the eastern part is called Shamie, the western Maan. The
inhabitants cultivate figs, pomegranates, and plums in large quantities,
but do not sow their fields. They purchase wheat from Kerek, which their
women grind; and at the passage of the Hadj they sell the flour as well
as their fruits to the pilgrims; which, is their means of subsistence.
They purchase articles of dress and luxury from Ghaza and El Khalil.
12. A long day’s journey to the castle of Akaba Esshamie [Arabic], or
the Syrian Akaba, so called in opposition to the Akaba el Masri or the
Egyptian Akaba which is on the eastern branch of the Red-sea, at one
day’s journey from the Akaba Esshamie; here is a Birket of rain-water.
The Hadj road, as far as Akaba, is a complete desert on both sides, yet
not incapable [p.659] of culture. The mountain chain continues at about
ten hours to the west of the Hadj route. Akaba is in the hands of the
Arabs el Howeytat [Arabic], who are in communication with Cairo. From
the foot of the castle walls the Hadj descends a deep chasm, and it
takes half an hour to reach the plain below. The pilgrims fear that
passage, and repeat this prayer before they descend; “May the Almighty
God be merciful to them who descend into the belly of the dragon”
[Arabic]. The mountain consists of a red gray sand stone, which is used
at Damascus for whetstones.
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