I Found Amongst The Polish Jews, One From Bohemia, An Honest
[P.328] German, who was overjoyed on hearing me speak his own language,
and who carried me through the quarter, introducing me to all his
acquaintance.
In every house I was offered brandy, and the women
appeared to be much less shy than they are in other parts of Syria. It
may easily be supposed that many of these Jews are discontented with
their lot. Led by the stories of the missionaries to conceive the most
exalted ideas of the land of promise, as they still call it, several of
them have absconded from their parents, to beg their way to Palestine,
but no sooner do they arrive in one or other of the four holy cities,
than they find by the aspect of all around them, that they have been
deceived. A few find their way back to their native country, but the
greater number remain, and look forward to the inestimable advantage of
having their bones laid in the holy land. The cemetery of the Jews of
Tiberias is on the declivity of the mountain, about half an hour from
the town; where the tombs of their most renowed persons are visited much
in the same manner as are the sepulchres of Mussulman saints. I was
informed that a great Rabbin lay buried there, with fourteen thousand of
his scholars around him.
The ancient town of Tiberias does not seem to have occupied any part of
the present limits of Tabaria, but was probably situated at a short
distance farther to the south, near the borders of the lake. Its ruins
begin at about five minutes walk from the wall of the present town, on
the road to the hot-wells. The only remains of antiquity are a few
columns, heaps of stones, and some half ruined walls and foundations of
houses. On the sea-side, close to the water, are the ruins of a long
thick wall or mole, with a few columns of gray granite, lying in the
sea. About mid-way between the town and the hot-wells, in the midst of
the plain, I saw seven columns, of which two only are standing upright;
and there may probably be more lying on the ground, hid among the high
[p.329] grass with which the plain is covered; they are of gray granite,
about twelve or fourteen feet long, and fifteen inches in diameter; at a
short distance from them is the fragment of a beautiful column of red
Egyptian granite, of more than two feet in diameter. These ruins stretch
along the sea-shore, as far as the hot springs, and extend to about
three hundred yards inland. The springs are at thirty-five minutes from
the modern town, and twenty paces from the water’s edge; they were
probably very near the gate of the ancient town. No vestiges of
buildings of any size are visible here; nothing being seen but the ruins
of small arched buildings, and heaps of stone.
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