The Mountains
Which Border The Lake Here Terminate
TABARIA
[p.320] in a perpendicular cliff, which is basaltish with an upper
stratum of calcareous rock; and the
Shore changes from the direction
S.W. by S. to that of S. by E. In the angle stands the miserable village
El Medjdel (Arabic), one hour distant from Ain-et-Tin, and agreeing both
in name and position with the ancient Magdala. The Wady Hammam, in which
stands the Kalaat ibn-Maan, branches off from Medjdel. Proceeding from
hence the shore of the lake is overgrown with Defle (Solanum furiosum),
and there are several springs close to the water’s side. At the end of
two hours and a quarter from Ain-et-Tin, we reached Tabaria (Arabic).
June 23d.--There being no Khan for travellers at Tabaria I went to the
Catholic priest, and desired him to let me have the keys of the church,
that I might take up my quarters there; he gave them to me, but finding
the place swarming with vermin, I removed into the open churchyard.
Tabaria, the ancient Tiberias,[Tel el Faras, the southern extremity of
Djebel Heish, bears from a point above Tabaria N.E. by E.] stands close
to the lake, upon a small plain, surrounded by mountains. Its situation
is extremely hot and unhealthy, as the mountain impedes the free course
of the westerly winds which prevail throughout Syria during the summer.
Hence intermittent fevers, especially those of the quartan form, are
very common in the town in that season. Little rain falls in winter,
snow is almost unknown on the borders of the lake, and the temperature,
on the whole, appears to be very nearly the same as that of the Dead
sea. The town is surrounded towards the land by a thick and well built
wall, about twenty feet in height, with a high parapet and loop-holes.
It surrounds the city on three sides, and touches the water at its two
[p.321] extremities; but there are some remains on the shore of the
lake, which seem to indicate that the town was once inclosed on this
side also. I observed, likewise, some broken columns of granite in the
water close to the shore. The town wall is flanked by twenty round
towers standing at unequal distances. Both towers and walls are built
with black stones of moderate size, and seem to be the work of not very
remote times; the whole being in a good state of repair, the place may
be considered as almost impregnable to Syrian soldiers.
[Map not included] a, The town gate; b, the Serai or palace of the
Mutsellim, a spacious building, which has lately been repaired; c, the
mosque, a fine building, but in bad condition; d, the Catholic church;
e, the gate of the Jews quarter; f, a mosque; g, a range of large
vaults; h, a small town-gate now walled up; i, a newly built Bazar. The
mosque (f) is a handsome arched building, and was anciently a church.
The range of vaults at g, which are close to the sea shore, communicate
with each other by cross alleys and have very low roofs, which terminate
at top in a point:
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