A Lamb Was Killed, And A Friend Of The Family Did The Honours Of
The Table:
We should have enjoyed our repast had there not been an
absolute want of water, but there was none
Nearer than the Modjeb, and
the daily supply which, according to the custom of the Arabs, had been
brought in before sun-rise, was, as often happens, exhausted before
night; our own water skins too, which we had filled at the Modjeb, had
been emptied by the shepherds before we reached the encampment. This
loss was the more sensible to me, as in desert countries where water
seldom occurs, not feeling great thirst during the heat of the day, I
was seldom in the habit of drinking much at that time; but in the
evening, and the early part of the night, I always drank with great
eagerness.
July 15th.—We left our kind hosts, who belonged to the Arabs Hamaide,
early in the morning, and continued our route along the ancient road. At
half an hour from the encampment we passed the ruined village El Ryhha
(Arabic), in one hour and a half we arrived at the ruins of an ancient
city called Beit Kerm (Arabic), belonging to which, on the side of the
road, are the remains of a temple of remote antiquity. Its shape is an
oblong square, one of the long sides forming the front, where was a
portica of eight columns in antis: the columns, three feet in diameter,
are lying on the ground. Within the temple, a great part of the walls of
which are fallen, there are fragments of smaller columns. The stones
used in the construction of the walls are about five feet long, and two
feet broad. At one hour and three quarters is the ruined village of
Hemeymat (Arabic). This district, which is an even plain, is
KEREK
[p.377] very fertile, and large tracts are here cultivated by the
inhabitants of Kerek, and the Arabs Hamaide. At two hours and a half is
Rabba (Arabic), probably the ancient Rabbath Moab, where the ancient
causeway terminates. The ruins of Rabba are about half an hour in
circuit, and are situated upon a low hill, which commands the whole
plain. I examined a part of them only, but the rest seemed to contain
nothing remarkable. On the west side is a temple, of which one wall and
several niches remain, by no means distinguished for elegance. Near them
is a gate belonging to another building, which stood on the edge of a
Birket. Distant from these ruins about thirty yards stand two Corinthian
columns of middling size, one higher than the other. In the plain, to
the west of the Birket, stands an insulated altar. In the town many
fragments are lying about; the walls of the larger edifices are built
like those of Heit Kerm. There are many remains of private habitations,
but none entire. There being no springs in this spot, the town had two
Birkets, the largest of which is cut entirely out of the rocky ground,
together with several cisterns. About three quarters of an hour to the
S.E. of Rabba, are two copious springs, called El Djebeyba (Arabic), and
El Yaroud (Arabic). From Rabba our road lay S. by E. At four hours are
the ruins of Kereythela (Arabic). At the end of five hours we entered a
mountainous district, full of Wadys; and after a march of six hours we
reached the town of Kerek.
I hesitated where I should alight at Kerek, and whether I should
announce myself as a Turk or a Christian, for I knew that the success of
my progress southward depended upon the good will of the people of this
place. I had a letter of recommendation to the Sheikh of the town, given
to me by a Turkish gentleman of Damascus, whose wife was a native of
Kerek, and he had mentioned me in such terms as led me to anticipate a
good reception; but as I knew that I should be much harassed by
inquisitive visitors, were
[p.378] I to take up my lodgings at the Sheikh’s house, I determined to
alight at some Christian’s, and then consult upon my future proceeding
with the Greek priest, whom I knew by report. I no sooner entered the
north gate of the town, where is the quarter of the Christians, than I
was surrounded by several of these hospitable people, who took hold of
the bridle of my horse, every one insisting upon my repairing to his
dwelling; I followed one, and the whole neighbourhood was soon
assembled, to partake of the sheep that was slaughtered in honour of my
arrival; still no one had asked me who I was, or whither I was going.
After some conversation with the priest, I thought it expedient to pay a
visit of ceremony to the Sheikh, in order to deliver my letter; I soon
however had reason to repent: he received me very politely; but when he
heard of my intention of proceeding southward, he told me that he could
not allow of my going forward with one guide only, and that as he was
preparing to visit the southern districts himself, in a few days, I
should wait for him or his people to conduct me. His secretary then
informed me, that it was expected I should make some present to the
Sheikh, and pay him, besides, the sum which I must have given for a
guide. The present I flatly refused to make, saying that it was rather
the Sheikh’s duty to make a present to the guest recommended to him by
such a person as my Damascene friend was. With respect to the second
demand, I answered that I had no more money with me than was absolutely
necessary for my journey. Our negotiations on this point lasted for
several days; when seeing that I could obtain no guide without an order
from the Sheikh, I at last agreed to pay fifteen piastres for his
company as far as Djebel Sherah.
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