Travels In Arabia By  John Lewis Burckhardt

























































 -  After having left the skirts of the town, where the road
passes by mounds of sand, among which is the - Page 80
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After Having Left The Skirts Of The Town, Where The Road Passes By Mounds Of Sand, Among Which Is The

Cemetery of the inhabitants, we travelled across a very barren, sandy plain, ascending slightly towards the east; there are no

Trees in it, and it is strongly impregnated with salt to about two miles from the town. After three hours' march, we entered a hilly country, where a coffee-hut stands near a well named Raghame. We continued in a broad and winding valley amongst these hills, some sandy and some rocky, and, at the end of five hours and a half, stopped for a short time at the coffee-hut and well called El Beyadhye. Of these wells the water is not good. From thence, in one hour and a half, (seven hours in all,) we reached a similar station called El Ferayne, where we overtook a caravan of pilgrims, who were accompanying goods and provisions destilled for the army: they had quitted Djidda before us in the evening. The coffee-huts are miserable structures, with half-ruined

[p.54] walls, and coverings of brushwood; they afford nothing more than water and coffee. Formerly, it is said, there were twelve coffee-houses on this road, which afforded refreshments of every kind to the passengers between Djidda and the holy city; but as the journey is now made chiefly during the night, and as the Turkish soldiers will pay for nothing unless by compulsion, most of these houses have been abandoned. The few that still remain are kept by some of the Arabs of the Lahyan tribe, (a branch of the Hodheyl Arabs,) and Metarefe, whose families are Bedouins, and live among the hills with their flocks.

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