Kanaya is the chief man in the village, and is very
intelligent and apparently well educated. He has divorced his
wife, and his sister has practically divorced her husband. Of
late, to help his income, he has let these charming rooms to
foreigners who have brought letters to him, and he is very anxious
to meet their views, while his good taste leads him to avoid
Europeanising his beautiful home.
Supper came up on a zen, or small table six inches high, of old
gold lacquer, with the rice in a gold lacquer bowl, and the teapot
and cup were fine Kaga porcelain. For my two rooms, with rice and
tea, I pay 2s. a day. Ito forages for me, and can occasionally get
chickens at 10d. each, and a dish of trout for 6d., and eggs are
always to be had for 1d. each. It is extremely interesting to live
in a private house and to see the externalities, at least, of
domestic life in a Japanese middle-class home. I. L. B.
LETTER VIII
The Beauties of Nikko - The Burial of Iyeyasu - The Approach to the
Great Shrines - The Yomei Gate - Gorgeous Decorations - Simplicity of
the Mausoleum - The Shrine of Iyemitsu - Religious Art of Japan and
India - An Earthquake - Beauties of Wood-carving.
KANAYA'S, NIKKO, June 21.
