Unbeaten Tracks In Japan By Isabella L. Bird
























































 -   Thence it runs for six miles on a
level, sandy strip, covered near the sea with a dwarf bamboo about - Page 397
Unbeaten Tracks In Japan By Isabella L. Bird - Page 397 of 417 - First - Home

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Thence It Runs For Six Miles On A Level, Sandy Strip, Covered Near The Sea With A Dwarf Bamboo About Five Inches High, And Farther Inland With Red Roses And Blue Campanula.

At the foot of the bluff there is a ruinous Japanese house, where an Aino family has been placed to give shelter and rest to any who may be crossing the pass.

I opened my bento bako of red lacquer, and found that it contained some cold, waxy potatoes, on which I dined, with the addition of some tea, and then waited wearily for Ito, for whom the guide went in search. The house and its inmates were a study. The ceiling was gone, and all kinds of things, for which I could not imagine any possible use, hung from the blackened rafters. Everything was broken and decayed, and the dirt was appalling. A very ugly Aino woman, hardly human in her ugliness, was splitting bark fibre. There were several irori, Japanese fashion, and at one of them a grand-looking old man was seated apathetically contemplating the boiling of a pot. Old, and sitting among ruins, he represented the fate of a race which, living, has no history, and perishing leaves no monument. By the other irori sat, or rather crouched, the "MISSING LINK." I was startled when I first saw it. It was - shall I say? - a man, and the mate, I cannot write the husband, of the ugly woman. It was about fifty. The lofty Aino brow had been made still loftier by shaving the head for three inches above it.

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