The Discord In The General Harmony Was
Produced By The Sight Of The Ainos, A Harmless People Without The
Instinct Of Progress, Descending To That Vast Tomb Of Conquered And
Unknown Races Which Has Opened To Receive So Many Before Them.
A
mounted policeman started with us from Yubets, and rode the whole
way here, keeping exactly to my pace,
But never speaking a word.
We forded one broad, deep river, and crossed another, partly by
fording and partly in a scow, after which the track left the level,
and, after passing through reedy grass as high as the horse's ears,
went for some miles up and down hill, through woods composed
entirely of the Ailanthus glandulosus, with leaves much riddled by
the mountain silk-worm, and a ferny undergrowth of the familiar
Pteris aquilina. The deep shade and glancing lights of this open
copsewood were very pleasant; and as the horse tripped gaily up and
down the little hills, and the sea murmur mingled with the rustle
of the breeze, and a glint of white surf sometimes flashed through
the greenery, and dragonflies and butterflies in suits of crimson
and black velvet crossed the path continually like "living flashes"
of light, I was reminded somewhat, though faintly, of windward
Hawaii. We emerged upon an Aino hut and a beautiful placid river,
and two Ainos ferried the four people and horses across in a scow,
the third wading to guide the boat. They wore no clothing, but
only one was hairy.
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