Unbeaten Tracks In Japan By Isabella L. Bird
























































 -   Not the least of the charms of the
evening is that I am absolutely alone, having ridden the eighteen
miles - Page 272
Unbeaten Tracks In Japan By Isabella L. Bird - Page 272 of 417 - First - Home

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Not The Least Of The Charms Of The Evening Is That I Am Absolutely Alone, Having Ridden The Eighteen Miles

From Hakodate without Ito or an attendant of any kind; have unsaddled my own horse, and by means of much

Politeness and a dexterous use of Japanese substantives have secured a good room and supper of rice, eggs, and black beans for myself and a mash of beans for my horse, which, as it belongs to the Kaitakushi, and has the dignity of iron shoes, is entitled to special consideration!

I am not yet off the "beaten track," but my spirits are rising with the fine weather, the drier atmosphere, and the freedom of Yezo. Yezo is to the main island of Japan what Tipperary is to an Englishman, Barra to a Scotchman, "away down in Texas" to a New Yorker - in the rough, little known, and thinly-peopled; and people can locate all sorts of improbable stories here without much fear of being found out, of which the Ainos and the misdeeds of the ponies furnish the staple, and the queer doings of men and dogs, and adventures with bears, wolves, and salmon, the embroidery. Nobody comes here without meeting with something queer, and one or two tumbles either with or from his horse. Very little is known of the interior except that it is covered with forest matted together by lianas, and with an undergrowth of scrub bamboo impenetrable except to the axe, varied by swamps equally impassable, which give rise to hundreds of rivers well stocked with fish.

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