They Were Much Surprised At My
Not Smoking, And Supposed Me To Be Under A Vow!
They asked me many
questions about our customs and Government, but frequently reverted
to tobacco.
I. L. B.
LETTER XX
The Effect of a Chicken - Poor Fare - Slow Travelling - Objects of
Interest - Kak'ke - The Fatal Close - A Great Fire - Security of the
Kuras.
SHINGOJI, July 21.
Very early in the morning, after my long talk with the Kocho of
Kanayama, Ito wakened me by saying, "You'll be able for a long
day's journey to-day, as you had a chicken yesterday," and under
this chicken's marvellous influence we got away at 6.45, only to
verify the proverb, "The more haste the worse speed." Unsolicited
by me the Kocho sent round the village to forbid the people from
assembling, so I got away in peace with a pack-horse and one
runner. It was a terrible road, with two severe mountain-passes to
cross, and I not only had to walk nearly the whole way, but to help
the man with the kuruma up some of the steepest places. Halting at
the exquisitely situated village of Nosoki, we got one horse, and
walked by a mountain road along the head-waters of the Omono to
Innai. I wish I could convey to you any idea of the beauty and
wildness of that mountain route, of the surprises on the way, of
views, of the violent deluges of rain which turned rivulets into
torrents, and of the hardships and difficulties of the day; the
scanty fare of sun-dried rice dough and sour yellow rasps, and the
depth of the mire through which we waded!
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