Yamagata, A Thriving Town Of 21,000 People And The Capital Of The
Ken, Is Well Situated On A Slight Eminence, And This And The
Dominant Position Of The Kencho At The Top Of The Main Street Give
It An Emphasis Unusual In Japanese Towns.
The outskirts of all the
cities are very mean, and the appearance of the lofty white
buildings of the new Government Offices above the low grey houses
was much of a surprise.
The streets of Yamagata are broad and
clean, and it has good shops, among which are long rows selling
nothing but ornamental iron kettles and ornamental brasswork. So
far in the interior I was annoyed to find several shops almost
exclusively for the sale of villainous forgeries of European
eatables and drinkables, specially the latter. The Japanese, from
the Mikado downwards, have acquired a love of foreign intoxicants,
which would be hurtful enough to them if the intoxicants were
genuine, but is far worse when they are compounds of vitriol, fusel
oil, bad vinegar, and I know not what. I saw two shops in Yamagata
which sold champagne of the best brands, Martel's cognac, Bass'
ale, Medoc, St. Julian, and Scotch whisky, at about one-fifth of
their cost price - all poisonous compounds, the sale of which ought
to be interdicted.
The Government Buildings, though in the usual confectionery style,
are improved by the addition of verandahs; and the Kencho,
Saibancho, or Court House, the Normal School with advanced schools
attached, and the police buildings, are all in keeping with the
good road and obvious prosperity.
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