The Japanese
Have A Perfect Passion For Children, But It Is Not Good For
European Children To Be Much With Them, As They Corrupt Their
Morals, And Teach Them To Tell Lies.
The climate of Niigata and of most of this great province contrasts
unpleasantly with the region on the other
Side of the mountains,
warmed by the gulf-stream of the North Pacific, in which the autumn
and winter, with their still atmosphere, bracing temperature, and
blue and sunny skies, are the most delightful seasons of the year.
Thirty-two days of snow-fall occur on an average. The canals and
rivers freeze, and even the rapid Shinano sometimes bears a horse.
In January and February the snow lies three or four feet deep, a
veil of clouds obscures the sky, people inhabit their upper rooms
to get any daylight, pack-horse traffic is suspended, pedestrians
go about with difficulty in rough snow-shoes, and for nearly six
months the coast is unsuitable for navigation, owing to the
prevalence of strong, cold, north-west winds. In this city people
in wadded clothes, with only their eyes exposed, creep about under
the verandahs. The population huddles round hibachis and shivers,
for the mercury, which rises to 92 degrees in summer, falls to 15
degrees in winter. And all this is in latitude 37 degrees 55' -
three degrees south of Naples! I. L. B.
LETTER XVII
The Canal-side at Niigata - Awful Loneliness - Courtesy - Dr. Palm's
Tandem - A Noisy Matsuri - A Jolting Journey - The Mountain Villages -
Winter Dismalness - An Out-of-the-world Hamlet - Crowded Dwellings -
Riding a Cow - "Drunk and Disorderly" - An Enforced Rest - Local
Discouragements - Heavy Loads - Absence of Beggary - Slow Travelling.
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