Unbeaten Tracks In Japan By Isabella L. Bird
























































 -   I usually retire
about 7.30, for there is almost no twilight, and very little
inducement for sitting up by - Page 118
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I Usually Retire About 7.30, For There Is Almost No Twilight, And Very Little Inducement For Sitting Up By

The dimness of candle or andon, and I have found these days of riding on slow, rolling, stumbling horses very

Severe, and if I were anything of a walker, should certainly prefer pedestrianism. I. L. B.

LETTER XII

A Fantastic Jumble - The "Quiver" of Poverty - The Water-shed - From Bad to Worse - The Rice Planter's Holiday - A Diseased Crowd - Amateur Doctoring - Want of Cleanliness - Rapid Eating - Premature Old Age.

KURUMATOGE, June 30.

After the hard travelling of six days the rest of Sunday in a quiet place at a high elevation is truly delightful! Mountains and passes, valleys and rice swamps, forests and rice swamps, villages and rice swamps; poverty, industry, dirt, ruinous temples, prostrate Buddhas, strings of straw-shod pack-horses; long, grey, featureless streets, and quiet, staring crowds, are all jumbled up fantastically in my memory. Fine weather accompanied me through beautiful scenery from Ikari to Yokokawa, where I ate my lunch in the street to avoid the innumerable fleas of the tea-house, with a circle round me of nearly all the inhabitants. At first the children, both old and young, were so frightened that they ran away, but by degrees they timidly came back, clinging to the skirts of their parents (skirts, in this case, being a metaphorical expression), running away again as often as I looked at them. The crowd was filthy and squalid beyond description.

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