In The Middle Of The Dinner Table
There Is A Reflecting Lake For "Hot-House Flowers;" And Exquisite
Crystal, Menu
Cards with holders of Dresden china, four classical
statuettes in Parian, with pine-apples, granadillas, bananas,
pomegranates, and a durion
Blanda, are the "table decorations." The
cuisine is almost too elaborate for a traveler's palate, but plain meat
is rarely to be got, and even when procurable is unpalatable unless
disguised. Curry is at each meal, but it is not made with curry powder.
Its basis is grated cocoa-nut made into a paste with cocoa-nut milk,
and the spices are added fresh. Turtles when caught are kept in a pond
until they are needed, and we have turtle soup, stewed turtle, curried
turtle and turtle cutlets ad nauseam. Fowls are at every meal, but
never plain roasted or plain boiled. The first day there was broiled
and stewed elephant trunk, which tastes much like beef.
Babu, who is always en grand tenue, has taken command of everything and
saves our host all trouble. He carves at the sideboard, scolds the
servants in a stage whisper, and pushes them indignantly aside when
they attempt to offer anything to "his young ladies," reduces Captain
Murray's butler to a nonentity, and as far as he can turns the
Residency into Government House, waiting on us assiduously in our
rooms, and taking care of our clothes. The dinner bell is a bugle.
In houses in these regions there is always a brick-floored bath-room,
usually of large size, under your bedroom, to which you descend by a
ladder. This is often covered by a trap-door, which is sometimes
concealed by a couch, and in order to descend the sofa cushion is
lifted. Here it is an open trap in the middle of the room. A bath is a
necessity - not a luxury - so near the equator, and it is usual to take
one three, four, or even five times a day, with much refreshment. One
part of Babu's self-imposed duty is to look under our pillows for
snakes and centipedes, and the latter have been found in all our rooms.
I must now make you acquainted with our host, Captain Murray. He was
appointed when the Datu Klana asked for a Resident four years ago. He
devotes himself to Sungei Ujong as if it were his own property, though
he has never been able to acquire the language. He is a man about
thirty-eight, a naval officer, and an enterprising African traveler;
under the middle height, bronzed, sun-browned, disconnected in his
conversation from the habit of living without anyone in or out of the
house to speak to; professing a misanthropy which he is very far from
feeling, for he is quite unsuspicious, and disposed to think the best
of every one; hasty when vexed, but thoroughly kind-hearted; very
blunt, very undignified, never happy (he says) out of the wilds;
thoroughly well disposed to the Chinese and Malays, but very impatient
of their courtesies, thoroughly well meaning, thoroughly a gentleman,
but about the last person that I should have expected to see in a
position which is said to require much tact if not finesse. His
success leads me to think, as I have often thought before, that if we
attempt to deal with Orientals by their own methods, we are apt to find
them more than a match for us, and that thorough honesty is the best
policy.
He lives alone, unguarded; trusts himself by night and day without any
escort among the people; keeps up no ceremony at all, and is
approachable at all hours. Like most travelers, he has some practical
knowledge of medicine, and he gives advice and medicines most
generously, allowing himself to be interrupted by patients at all
hours. There is no doctor nearer than Malacca. He has been so
successful that people come from the neighboring States for his advice.
There is very little serious disease, but children are subject to a
loathsome malady called puru. Two were brought with it to-day. The
body and head are covered with pustules containing matter, looking very
much like small-pox, and the natives believe that it must run its
course for a year. Captain Murray cures it in a few days with iodide of
potassium and iodine, and he says that it is fast disappearing.
Captain Murray is judge, "sitting in Equity," Superintendent of Police,
Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Surveyor of Taxes, besides being Board
of Trade, Board of Works, and I know not what besides. In fact, _he is
the Government_, although the Datu Klana's signature or seal is
required to confirm a sentence of capital punishment, and possibly in
one or two other cases; and his Residential authority is subject only
to the limitations of his own honor and good sense, sharpened somewhat,
were he other than what he is, by possible snubs from the Governor of
the Straits Settlements or the Colonial Secretary. He is a thoroughly
honorable man, means well by all the interests of his little kingdom,
and seems both beloved and trusted.
On Sunday morning we had English service and a sermon, the congregation
being augmented by the only other English people - a man from Australia
who is here road-making, and his wife; and in the afternoon,
disregarding a temperature of 85 degrees, we went through the Chinese
village of Serambang.
Tin is the staple product of Sungei Ujong, and until lately the Malay
peninsula and the adjacent regions were supposed to be the richest tin
producing countries in the world. There is not a single tin mine,
however, properly so-called. The whole of the tin exported from Sungei
Ujong, which last year (1879), even at its present reduced price, was
valued at 81,400 pounds, and contributed as export duty to the
Government 5,800 pounds, is found in the detritus of ancient mountains,
and is got, in mining parlance, in "stream works" - that is, by washing
the soil, just as gold is washed out of the soil in Australia and
California.
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