This Is By No Means To Write That The Malays Love Us,
For I Doubt Whether The Entente Cordiale Between Any Of The
Dark-Skinned Oriental Races And Ourselves Is More Than Skin Deep.
It is
possible that they prefer being equitably taxed by us, with the
security which our rule brings, to
Being plundered by native princes,
but we do not understand them, or they us, and where they happen to be
Mohammedans, there is a gulf of contempt and dislike on their part
which is rarely bridged by amenities on ours. The pilgrimage to Mecca
is the great object of ambition. Many Malays, in spite of its expense
and difficulties, make it twice, and even three times. We passed three
women clothed in white from head to foot, their drapery veiling them
closely, leaving holes for their eyes. These had just returned from
Mecca. The picturesqueness of the drive home was much heightened by the
darkness, and the brilliancy of the fires underneath the Malay houses.
The great gray buffalo which they use for various purposes - and which,
though I have written gray, is as often pink - has a very thin and
sensitive skin, and is almost maddened by mosquitoes; and we frequently
passed fires lighted in the jungle, with these singular beasts standing
or lying close to them in the smoke on the leeward side, while Malays
in red sarongs and handkerchiefs, and pretty brown children scarcely
clothed at all, lounged in the firelight. Then Chinese lamps and
lanterns, and the sound of what passes for music; then the refinement
and brightness of the Government bungalow, and at ten o'clock my chair
with three bearers, and the solitude of the lonely Stadthaus.
I. L. B.
LETTER X
Malacca Mediaevalism - Tiger Stories - The Chinese Carnival - Gold and
Gems - A Weight of Splendor - New-Year Rejoicings - Syed Abdulrahman - A
Mohammedan Princess - A Haunted City - Francis Xavier - The Reward of
"Pluck" - Projects of Travel
STADTHAUS, MALACCA, January 23.
Malacca fascinates me more and more daily. There is, among other
things, a mediaevalism about it. The noise of the modern world reaches
it only in the faintest echoes; its sleep is almost dreamless, its
sensations seem to come out of books read in childhood. Thus, the
splendid corpse of a royal tiger has been brought in in a bullock-cart,
the driver claiming the reward of fifteen dollars, and its claws were
given to me. It was trapped only six miles off, and its beautiful
feline body had not had time to stiffen. Even when dead, with its
fierce head and cruel paws hanging over the end of the cart, it was not
an object to be disrespected. The same reward is offered for a
rhinoceros, five dollars for a crocodile (alligator?) and five dollars
for a boa-constrictor or python. Lately, at five in the morning, a
black tiger (panther?) came down the principal street of Malacca, tore
a Chinamen in pieces, and then, scared by a posse of police in pursuit,
jumped through a window into a house. Every door in the city was
barred, as the rumor spread like wildfire. The policemen very boldly
entered the house, but the animal pinned the Malay corporal to the
wall. The second policeman, a white man, alas! ran away. The third, a
Malay, at the risk of his life, went close up to the tiger, shot him,
and beat him over the head with the butt of his rifle, which made the
beast let go the corporal and turn on him, but fortunately he had
scarcely got hold of him when he fell dead. The corporal is just coming
out of hospital, almost completely paralyzed, to be taken care of for
the rest of his life, and the man who rescued him has got promotion and
a pension. A short time ago a fine young tiger was brought alive to
Captain Shaw, and he ordered a proper cage to be made, in which to send
him to England, telling Babu, the "double Hadji," to put it into the
"godown" in its bamboo cage; but the man put it into the kitchen, and
in the morning the cage was found broken into pieces, the kitchen
shutters torn down, and the tiger gone! There was a complete panic in
Malacca; people kept their houses shut, and did not dare to go out even
on business, and not only was the whole police force turned out in
pursuit, but the English garrison. It was some days before the scare
subsided and the people believed that the beast had escaped to its
natural home in the jungle.
A tropical thunderstorm of the most violent kind occurred yesterday,
when I was quite alone in the Stadthaus. The rain fell in sheets,
deluges, streams, and the lightning flashed perfectly blue through a
"darkness which could be felt." There is a sort of grandeur about this
old Dutch Stadthaus, with its tale of two centuries. Its smooth lawns,
sloping steeply to the sea, are now brilliant with the gaudy
parrot-like blossoms of the "flame of the forest," the gorgeous
Poinciana regia, with which they are studded. Malacca is such a rest
after the crowds of Japan and the noisy hurry of China! Its endless
afternoon remains unbroken except by the dreamy, colored, slow-moving
Malay life which passes below the hill. There is never any hurry or
noise.
So had I written without prescience! The night of the awful silence
which succeeded the thunderstorm was also the eve of the Chinese New
Year, and Captain Shaw gave permission for "fireworks" from 7 P.M. till
midnight. The term "fireworks" received a most liberal construction.
The noise was something awful, and as it came into the lonely
Stadthaus, and red, blue, crimson, and greenish-yellow glares at short
intervals lighted up the picturesque Malacca steam and its blue and
yellow houses, with their steep red-tiled roofs and balconies and
quaint projections, and the streets were traced in fire and smoke,
while crackers, squibs, and rockets went off in hundreds, and cannon,
petards, and gingalls were fired incessantly, and gongs, drums, and
tom-toms were beaten, the sights, and the ceaseless, tremendous,
universal din made a rehearsal of the final assault on a city in old
days.
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