Crossed a very steep hill, and, after some hours
of hard riding, came down upon the lovely Perak, which we crossed in a
"dugout" so nearly level with the water that at every stroke of the
paddle of the native who crouched in the bow the water ran in over the
edge. We landed at the village of Kwala Kangsa
"In the glory of the sunset,
In the purple mists of evening,"
in which the magnified purple mountains were piled like Alps against
the flaming clouds. By the river bank lay the Dragon boat and the
square bamboo floating bath, through the side of which Mr. Birch was
mortally wounded.
On landing we met a very bright intelligent-looking young Malay with a
train of followers, a dandy almost, in white trousers, short red
sarong, black baju with gold buttons, gold watchguard, and red head
dress. The expression of his face was keen and slightly scornful. This
is Rajah Dris, a judge, and the probable successor to the Perak throne.
The present Resident thinks highly both of his character and his
abilities, and he is very popular among his countrymen. He walked with
us as far as the mosque, and I heard him ask questions about me. The
Mussulmen of the village, several of them being Hadjis, were assembling
for worship, lounging outside the mosque till the call to prayer came.
Ablutions before worshiping are performed in floating baths in the
river.