I Asked Him How To Get Ashore, And He
Replied, "It's No Use Going Ashore, The Town's Half Burned, And
Burning
still; there's not a bed at any hotel for love or money, and we are
going to make up
Beds here." However, through the politeness of the
mail agent, I did go ashore in the launch, but we had to climb through
and over at least eight tiers of boats, crammed with refugees, mainly
women and children, and piled up with all sorts of household goods,
whole and broken, which had been thrown into them promiscuously to save
them. "The palace of the English bishop," they said, was still
untouched; so, escaping from an indescribable hubbub, I got into a
bamboo chair, with two long poles which rested on the shoulders of two
lean coolies, who carried me to my destination at a swinging pace
through streets as steep as those of Varenna. Streets choked up with
household goods and the costly contents of shops, treasured books and
nick-nacks lying on the dusty pavements, with beds, pictures,
clothing, mirrors, goods of all sorts; Chinamen dragging their
possessions to the hills; Chinawomen, some of them with hoofs rather
than feet, carrying their children on their backs and under their arms;
officers, black with smoke, working at the hose like firemen; parties
of troops marching as steadily as on parade, or keeping guard in
perilous places; Mr. Pope Henessey, the Governor, ubiquitous in a chair
with four scarlet bearers; men belonging to the insurance companies
running about with drawn swords; the miscellaneous population running
hither and thither; loud and frequent explosions; heavy crashes as of
tottering walls, and, above all, the loud bell of the Romish cathedral
tolling rapidly, calling to work or prayer, made a scene of intense
excitement; while utterly unmoved, in grand Oriental calm (or apathy),
with the waves of tumult breaking round their feet, stood Sikh
sentries, majestic men, with swarthy faces and great, crimson turbans.
Through the encumbered streets and up grand flights of stairs my
bearers brought me to these picturesque grounds, which were covered
over with furniture and goods of all descriptions brought hither for
safety, and Chinese families camping out among them. Indeed, the Bishop
and Mrs. Burdon had not only thrown open their beautiful grounds to
these poor people, but had accommodated some Chinese families in rooms
in the palace under their own. The apathy or calm of the Chinese women
as they sat houseless amidst their possessions was very striking. In
the broad, covered corridor which runs round the palace everything the
Burdons most value was lying ready for instantaneous removal, and I was
warned not to unpack or take off my traveling dress. The Bishop and I
at once went down to the fire, which was got under, and saw the wreck
of the city and the houseless people camping out among the things they
had saved. Fire was still burning or smouldering everywhere, high walls
were falling, hose were playing on mountains of smouldering timber,
whole streets were blocked with masses of fallen brick and stone,
charred telegraph poles and fused wires were lying about, with half
burned ledgers and half burned everything.
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