Leaving This Large Kampong We Traveled By A Much-Grown-Up Elephant
Track, Needing The Constant Use Of The Parang
And the strength and
wisdom of the elephant to make it passable, saw several lairs and some
recent tiger tracks,
Crossed a very steep hill, and, after some hours
of hard riding, came down upon the lovely Perak, which we crossed in a
"dugout" so nearly level with the water that at every stroke of the
paddle of the native who crouched in the bow the water ran in over the
edge. We landed at the village of Kwala Kangsa
"In the glory of the sunset,
In the purple mists of evening,"
in which the magnified purple mountains were piled like Alps against
the flaming clouds. By the river bank lay the Dragon boat and the
square bamboo floating bath, through the side of which Mr. Birch was
mortally wounded.
On landing we met a very bright intelligent-looking young Malay with a
train of followers, a dandy almost, in white trousers, short red
sarong, black baju with gold buttons, gold watchguard, and red head
dress. The expression of his face was keen and slightly scornful. This
is Rajah Dris, a judge, and the probable successor to the Perak throne.
The present Resident thinks highly both of his character and his
abilities, and he is very popular among his countrymen. He walked with
us as far as the mosque, and I heard him ask questions about me. The
Mussulmen of the village, several of them being Hadjis, were assembling
for worship, lounging outside the mosque till the call to prayer came.
Ablutions before worshiping are performed in floating baths in the
river. The trade of Kwala Kangsa seems in the hands of the Chinese,
with a few Klings among them, and they have a row of shops.
LETTER XX (Continued)
A Joyous Welcome - A Severe Mortification - The British Resident - Daily
Visitors - Rajah Dris - A Tipsy Ape - Marriage Ceremonies - Marriage
Festivities - Malay Children - The Rajah Muda Yusuf - A Dreary
Funeral - Fascinating Companionship - A Cocoa-Nut Gatherer - The Argus
Pheasant - An Opium Wreck - Rhinoceros
Horns - Elephant-Taming - Petrifying Influences of Islamism - A Dwindling
Race
February 17. - I was very glad that yesterday was Sunday, so that I had
a quiet day, for nearly twelve hours of jungle riding on an elephant
makes one very stiff and sleepy. Three days of solitude, meals in the
company of apes, elephant excursions, wandering about alone, and free,
open air, tropical life in the midst of all luxuries and comforts, have
been very enchanting. At night, when the servants had retired to their
quarters and the apes to the roof, and I was absolutely alone in the
bungalow, the silent Oriental sentries motionless below the veranda
counting for nothing, and without a single door or window to give one
the feeling of restraint, I had some of the "I'm monarch of all I
survey" feeling; and when drum beat and bugle blast, and the turning
out of the Sikh guard, indicated that the Resident was in sight, I felt
a little reluctant to relinquish the society of animals, and my
"solitary reign," which seemed almost "ancient" also.
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