There has not been any rain for
three months, nor will there be any for two more; the sky is cloudless,
the air dry and very bracing.
It is cold enough at night for fires,
and autumn clothing can be worn all the day long, for though the sun is
bright and warm, the shade temperature does not rise above 65 degrees,
and exercise is easy and pleasant. At night, even at a considerable
height, the lowest temperature is 40 degrees. It is impossible to
praise the climate too highly, with its bright sky, cool dry air, and
five months of rainlessness; but I should write very differently if I
came here four months later, when the mercury ranges from 80 degrees to
90 degrees both by day and night, and the cloudy sky rests ever on the
summits of the island peaks, and everything is moist, and the rain
comes down continually in torrents, rising in hot vapors when the sun
shines, and people become limp and miserable, and their possessions
limp and moldy, and insect life revels, and human existence spent in a
vapor bath becomes burdensome. But the city is healthy to those who
live temperately. It has, however, a remarkable peculiarity. Standing
in and on rock, one fancies that fever would not be one of its
maladies, but the rock itself seems to have imprisoned fever germs in
some past age, for whenever it is quarried or cut into for foundations,
or is disturbed in any way, fever immediately breaks out.
Victoria is a beautiful city. It reminds me of Genoa, but that most of
its streets are so steep as to be impassable for wheeled vehicles, and
some of them are merely grand flights of stairs, arched over by dense
foliaged trees, so as to look like some tropical, colored, deep
colonnades. It has covered green balconies with festoons of creepers,
lofty houses, streets narrow enough to exclude much of the sun, people
and costumes of all nations, processions of Portuguese priests and
nuns; and all its many-colored life is seen to full advantage under
this blue sky and brilliant sun.
This house is magnificently situated, and very large and airy. Part is
the Episcopal Palace, and the rest St. Paul's College, of which Bishop
Burdon is warden. The mountainous grounds are beautiful, and the
entrance blazes with poinsettias. There are no female servants, but
Chinese men perform all the domestic service satisfactorily. I learn
that for a Chinese servant to appear without his skull-cap is rude, but
to appear with his pig-tail wound round his head instead of pendent, is
a gross insult! The "Pidjun English" is revolting, and the most
dignified persons demean themselves by speaking it. The word "pidjun"
appears to refer generally to business. "My pidjun" is undoubtedly "my
work." How the whole English-speaking community, without distinction of
rank, has come to communicate with the Chinese in this baby talk is
extraordinary.
If you order a fire you say something like this: "Fire makee, chop,
chop, here, makee fire number one," chop being quick, and number one
good, or "first-class." If a servant tells you that some one has called
he says, "One piecey manee here speak missey," and if one asks who he
is, he very likely answers, "No sabe," or else, "Number one, tink," by
which he implies that the visitor is, in his opinion, a gentleman.
After the courteous, kindly Japanese, the Chinese seem indifferent,
rough and disagreeable, except the well-to-do merchants in the shops,
who are bland, complacent, and courteous. Their rude stare and the way
they hustle you in the streets and shout their "pidjun" English at you
is not attractive. Then they have an ugly habit of speaking of us as
barbarian or foreign devils. Since I knew the word I have heard it
several times in the streets, and Bishop Burdon says that before his
servants found out that he knew Chinese, they were always speaking of
him and Mrs. Burdon by this very ugly name.
[Victoria is, or should be, well known, so I will not describe its
cliques, its boundless hospitalities, its extravagances in living, its
quarrels, its gayeties, its picnics, balls, regattas, races, dinner
parties, lawn tennis parties, amateur theatricals, afternoon teas, and
all its other modes of creating a whirl which passes for pleasure or
occupation. Rather, I would write of some of the facts concerning this
very remarkable settlement, which is on its way to being the most
important British colony in the Far East.
Moored to England by the electric cable, and replete with all the
magnificent enterprises and luxuries of English civilization, with a
population of one hundred and sixty thousand, of which only seven
thousand, including soldiers and sailors, are white, and possessing the
most imposing city of the East on its shores, the colony is only forty
years old; the island of Hong Kong having been ceded to England in
1841, while its charter only bears the date of 1843. The island, which
is about eleven miles long, from two to five broad, and with an area of
about twenty-nine square miles, is one of a number situated off the
south-eastern coast of China at the mouth of the Canton river, ninety
miles from Canton. It is one of the many "thieves' islands," and one of
the first necessities of the administration was to clear out the hordes
of sea and river pirates which infested its very intricate
neighborhood. It lies just within the tropic of Cancer in lat. 22
degrees N. and long. 114 degrees E. The Ly-ee-moon Pass, the narrow
strait which separates it from the Chinese mainland, is only half a
mile wide. Kowloon, on the mainland, an arid peninsula, on which some
of the Hong Kongese have been attempting to create a suburb, was ceded
to England in 1861. The whole island of Hong Kong is picturesque.
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