One Cannot See What The Foliage Is Like
Which Is Borne Far Aloft Into The Summer Sunshine, But On The
Ground I
found great red trumpet flowers and crimson corollas, like those of a
Brobdingnagian honeysuckle, and flowers like red
Dragon-flies
enormously magnified, and others like large, single roses in yellow
wax, falling slowly down now and then, messengers from the floral
glories above, "wasting (?) their sweetness on the desert air." A
traveler through a tropical jungle may see very few flowers and be
inclined to disparage it. It is necessary to go on adjacent rising
ground and look down where trees and trailers are exhibiting their
gorgeousness. Unlike the coarse weeds which form so much of the
undergrowth in Japan, everything which grows in these forests rejoices
the eye by its form or color; but things which hurt and sting and may
kill, lurk amidst all the beauties. A creeping plant with very
beautiful waxy leaves, said by Captain Murray to be vanilla, grows up
many of the trees.
When we got up to the top of this, which the Resident calls "Plantation
Hill," I was well pleased to find that only the undergrowth had been
cleared away, and that "The Sanitarium" consists only of a cabin with a
single room divided into two, and elevated on posts like a Malay house.
The deep veranda which surrounds it is reached by a stepladder. A
smaller house could hardly be, or a more picturesque one, from the
steepness and irregularity of its roof. The cook-house is a small attap
shed, in a place cut into the hill, and an inclosure of attap screens
with a barrel in it under the house is the bath-room. The edge of the
hill, from which a few trees have been cleared, is so steep that but
for a bamboo rail one might slip over upon the tree-tops below. Some
Liberian coffee shrubs, some tea, cinchona, and ipecacuanha, and some
heartless English cabbages, are being grown on the hillside, and the
Resident hopes that the State will have a great future of coffee.
The view in all directions was beautiful - to the north a sea of densely
wooded mountains with indigo shadows in their hollows; to the south the
country we had threaded on the Linggi river, forests, and small tapioca
clearings, little valleys where rice is growing, and scars where tin-
mining is going on; the capital, the little town of Serambang with its
larger clearings, and to the west the gleam of the shining sea. In the
absence of mosquitoes we were able to sit out till after dark, a rare
luxury. There was a gorgeous sunset of the gory, furnace kind, which
one only sees in the tropics - waves of violet light rolling up over the
mainland, and the low Sumatran coast looking like a purple cloud amidst
the fiery haze.
Dinner was well cooked, and served with coffee after it, just as at
home. The primitive bath-room was made usable by our eleven servants
and chair-bearers being sent to the hill, where the two gentlemen
mounted guard over them.
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