Among The Tibetans By Isabella L. Bird























































 -   Their hair is dressed once a month in many
much-greased plaits, fastened together at the back by a long - Page 25
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Their Hair Is Dressed Once A Month In Many Much-Greased Plaits, Fastened Together At The Back By A Long Tassel. The Head-Dress Is A Strip Of Cloth Or Leather, Sewn Over With Large Turquoises, Carbuncles, And Silver Ornaments.

This hangs in a point over the brow, broadens over the top of the head, and tapers as it reaches the waist behind.

The ambition of every Tibetan girl is centred in this singular headgear. Hoops in the ears, necklaces, amulets, clasps, bangles of brass or silver, and various implements stuck in the girdle and depending from it, complete a costume pre- eminent in ugliness. The Tibetans are dirty. They wash once a year, and, except for festivals, seldom change their clothes till they begin to drop off. They are healthy and hardy, even the women can carry weights of sixty pounds over the passes; they attain extreme old age; their voices are harsh and loud, and their laughter is noisy and hearty.

After leaving Shergol the signs of Buddhism were universal and imposing, and the same may be said of the whole of the inhabited part of Lesser Tibet. Colossal figures of Shakya Thubba (Buddha) are carved on faces of rock, or in wood, stone, or gilded copper sit on lotus thrones in endless calm near villages of votaries. Chod-tens from twenty to a hundred feet in height, dedicated to 'holy' men, are scattered over elevated ground, or in imposing avenues line the approaches to hamlets and gonpos.

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