The Plain Is A Dead
Level, As It Has Been Entirely Deposited By The Floods Of The Pedias
River.
We rode tolerably fast, the sun being hot and the country most
uninteresting; we had left the shrub-covered surface of the Carpas with
its romantic cliffs and deep valleys rich in verdure, and once more we
were upon the hateful treeless plain of Messaria.
During our sojourn in
the Carpas district the rainfall by our gauge had been 1.28 inches, but
in this unattractive region there had only been one or two faint
showers, hardly sufficient to lay the dust. The crops about five inches
above the ground were almost dead, and the young wheat and barley were
completely withered.
About four or five miles from Famagousta we arrived at the ruins of
ancient Salamis. The stringent prohibition of the British authorities
against a search for antiquities in Cyprus had destroyed the interest
which would otherwise have been taken by travellers in such
explorations. As I have before remarked, there are no remains to attract
attention upon the surface, but all ancient works are buried far
beneath, therefore in the absence of permission to excavate, the
practical study of the past is impossible, and it is a sealed book.
Fortunately General di Cesnola has published his most interesting
volume, combining historical sketches of ancient times with a minute
description of the enormous collection of antiquities which rewarded his
labours during ten years' research; so that if our government will
neither explore nor permit others to investigate, we have at least an
invaluable fund of information collected by those whose consular
position during the Turkish rule enabled them to make additions to our
historical knowledge. Mr. Hamilton Lang has also published his
experiences of a long residence in the island, during which his
successful excavations brought to light valuable relics of the past
which explain more forcibly than the leaves of a book the manners,
customs, and incidents among the various races which have made up
Cyprian history. General di Cesnola, after quoting the legend which
connects the origin of Salamis with the arrival of a colony of Greeks
under Teucer (the son of Telamon, king of the island of Salamis) from
the Trojan expedition, continues, "Of the history of Salamis almost
nothing is known till we come to the time of the Persian wars; but from
that time down to the reign of the Ptolemies it was by far the most
conspicuous and flourishing of the towns of Cyprus." "Onesius seized the
government of Salamis from his brother, Gorgus, and set up an obstinate
resistance to the Persian oppression under which the island was
labouring, about 500 B.C. In the end he was defeated by a Persian army
and fell in battle, and it was about this time, if not in consequence of
this defeat, that the dynasty of Teucer was, for a period, removed from
the government of Salamis. As to the length of this period there is
great obscurity. It seems, however, to be certain that with the help of
the Persians a Tyrian named Abdemon had seized the throne, and not only
paid tribute to Persia, but endeavoured to extend the Persian power over
the rest of the island. To Salamis itself he invited Phoenician
immigrants, and introduced Asiatic tastes and habits." Following upon
this usurpation came the revolt and the restoration of the Teucer
dynasty, under Evagoras, B.C. 374, and eventually upon the partition of
the empire of Alexander the Great it fell to the lot of Antigonus, after
the severe contests between Demetrius and Menelaus.
Like all ancient sea-ports of importance, Salamis was the object of
continual attacks, and by degrees its prosperity declined. In addition
to the damage and loss by sieges, it was seriously affected by an
earthquake, and a portion disappeared beneath the sea. The sand has
submerged a large area of the ruins which face the sea, but General di
Cesnola was able to trace the ancient wall for a distance of 6850 feet.
It is quite possible that the earthquake may have altered the conditions
of the harbour, which in former days was of considerable importance. It
has now entirely changed, and the bay near the shore is extremely
shallow, although good anchorage exists in the roadstead in ten to
sixteen fathoms.
The high masonry piers which had supported the arches of the ancient
aqueduct from Kythrea looked like spectres of past greatness among the
silent ruins, made doubly desolate by the miserable aspect of the
withered plain around them. A short distance from these is the church of
St. Barnabas, raised upon the site where it is believed that the body of
the Saint was discovered, together with the Gospel of St. Matthew. How
the Saint and the Gospel had been preserved in the damp soil of that
neighbourhood must be left to the imagination.
Passing through the ruins of the old town with the line of the wall
distinctly visible upon the sea front, we shortly arrived at the spot
where the river Pedias should have an exit to the sea. No sign of a
river-bed existed, but a long series of swamps, composed chiefly of
bare mud, would during wet weather have made a considerable detour
necessary; they were now dry, with the exception of two or three holes
full of muddy water, which were unconnected with any perceptible
channel. A long stone causeway proved that occasionally the hardened mud
upon which we rode would become a lake, but from the numerous tracks of
animals the earth was preferred to the uneven and slippery pavement of
the artificial road. The enormous quantity of mud brought down by the
Pedias during its fitful inundations had completely obliterated all
signs of an ordinary river-bed, and the deposit had produced a surface
that was scored in numerous places by the rush of water, without in any
way suggesting that we were in the neighbourhood of the largest river in
Cyprus.
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