Within The Fortress Of Kyrenia
There Are Many Examples Of Neglect, Where The Masons Have Either
Inverted Or Placed The Stones Sideways, In Which Case The Action Of The
Weather Has Completely Honey-Combed And Reduced The Material To An
Appearance Of Decayed Coral.
I observed instances of similar neglect
with the same results in portions of the fortress of Famagousta.
The tombs are easily distinguished from the cave-dwellings with which
the rocks are perforated, as they are merely chambers of a few feet
square sufficient for the reception of a limited number of bodies; the
dwellings have been carefully chiselled, and arranged with a bench cut
from the solid rock around the apartment.
The remains of ancient fortifications, including ruined towers and
ditches, prove that in former times Kyrenia was of far greater extent
than would be implied by its present small proportions. In like manner
with Famagousta this powerful fort has been considered as a position to
be occupied exclusively by Turks. The population of the town is now
about 600, but the Greek element is increasing since the British
Convention ensured their protection.
Our camp was daily visited by the women of both Turks and Cypriotes, who
came to indulge their curiosity, and my wife had some difficulty in
receiving the increasing circle of acquaintance. The want of a female
interpreter was at first acutely felt, as the conversation was much
restricted when Georgi was the only medium. After a few days this
shyness on the part of the Turkish ladies wore off, and Georgi, who was
a good, painstaking young fellow, became a favourite; some of these
ladies were exceedingly gracious, and took off their veils when in the
tent with Lady Baker and myself, and conversed upon various subjects
with much intelligence. A few were decidedly pretty; all were studiously
clean and well dressed, and they formed a marked contrast in appearance
and general style to the Cypriote women; the breed was superior, their
hands were delicate and well cared for, but disfigured by the prevalent
habit of staining the nails and palms with henna. This plant is called
shenna by all Turks and Cypriotes, and it is imported from Syria for the
purpose of dyeing the hair, and also the feet and hands of Turkish
women. It is not a production of Cyprus, as has been erroneously stated
by some authors; I made particular inquiries in all portions of the
island, and of all classes, upon this subject. The henna, or shenna, is
only to be met with in some few gardens, where it is cultivated as an
ornamental shrub, in the same manner that the arbutus may be seen in the
shrubberies of England. The Turkish women are very particular in dyeing
their hair, and use various preparations. The shenna produces a glossy
red, which some years ago was the fashionable tinge in England. There is
also a small seed of a plant which is prepared by roasting until burnt,
like coffee, and then reducing to powder, which is formed into a paste
with oil; this is a well-known dye, which turns the hair into a deep
black.
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