I need scarcely mention my satisfaction when he
returned with the pleasing information that it was.
December 7.
I quitted Fort Providence, being accompanied by Mr. Wentzel, Beauparlant,
and two other Canadians, provided with dogs and sledges. We proceeded
along the borders of the lake, occasionally crossing deep bays, and at
dusk encamped at the Gros Cap, having proceeded twenty-five miles.
December 8.
We set out on the lake with an excessively cold north-west wind and were
frequently interrupted by large pieces of ice which had been thrown up by
the violence of the waves during the progress of congelation, and at dusk
we encamped on the Reindeer Islands.
The night was fine with a faint Aurora Borealis. Next day the wind was so
keen that the men proposed conveying me in a sledge that I might be the
less exposed, to which after some hesitation I consented. Accordingly a
reindeer skin and a blanket were laid along the sledge and in these I was
wrapped tight up to the chin and lashed to the vehicle, just leaving
sufficient play for my head to perceive when I was about to be upset on
some rough projecting piece of ice. Thus equipped we set off before the
wind (a favourable circumstance on the lake) and went on very well until
noon, when the ice, being driven up in ridges in such a manner as to
obstruct us very much, I was released, and I confess not unwillingly
though I had to walk the remainder of the day.
There are large openings in many parts where the ice had separated and,
in attempting to cross one of them, the dogs fell into the water and were
saved with difficulty. The poor animals suffered dreadfully from the cold
and narrowly escaped being frozen to death. We had quickened our pace
towards the close of the day but could not get sight of the land, and it
was not till the sun had set that we perceived it about four miles to our
left, which obliged us to turn back and head the wind. It was then so
cold that two of the party were frozen almost immediately about the face
and ears. I escaped from having the good fortune to possess a pair of
gloves made of rabbits' skin with which I kept constantly chafing the
places which began to be affected. At six P.M. we arrived at the
fishing-huts near Stony Island and remained the night there. The
Canadians were not a little surprised at seeing us whom they had already
given up for lost - nor less so at the manner by which we had come - for
they all affirmed that the lake near them was quite free from ice the day
before.
December 10.
At an early hour we quitted the huts, lashed on sledges as before, with
some little addition to our party; and at three hours thirty minutes P.M.
arrived at the North-West Fort on Moose-Deer Island where I was received
by Mr. Smith with whom I had been acquainted at the Athabasca. He said he
partly expected me. The same evening I visited Messrs. McVicar and
McAulay at Hudson's Bay Fort when I found the reports concerning our
goods were but too true, there being in reality but five packages for us.
I also was informed that two Esquimaux, Augustus the chief, and Junius
his servant, who had been sent from Fort Churchill by Governor Williams
to serve in the capacity of interpreters to the Expedition, were at the
fort. These men were short of stature but muscular, apparently
good-natured, and perfectly acquainted with the purpose for which they
were intended. They had built themselves a snow-house on an adjacent
island where they used frequently to sleep. The following day I examined
the pieces and to my great disappointment found them to consist of three
kegs of spirits, already adulterated by the voyagers who had brought
them, a keg of flour and thirty-five pounds of sugar, instead of sixty.
The ammunition and tobacco, the two greatest requisites, were left
behind.
I lost no time in making a demand from both parties and, though their
united list did not furnish the half of what was required, yet it is
possible that everything was given by them which could be spared
consistently with their separate interests, particularly by Mr. McVicar
who in many articles gave me the whole he had in his possession. These
things were sent away immediately for Fort Enterprise, when an
interpreter arrived with letters from Lieutenant Franklin which referred
to a series of injurious reports said to have been propagated against us
by someone at Fort Providence.
Finding a sufficiency of goods could not be provided at Moose-Deer Island
I determined to proceed to the Athabasca Lake and ascertain the
inclinations of the gentlemen there. With this view I communicated my
intentions to both parties but could only get dogs enough from the
North-West Company to carry the necessary provisions for the journey.
Indeed Mr. Smith informed me plainly he was of opinion that nothing could
be spared at Fort Chipewyan, that goods had never been transported so
long a journey in the winter season, and that the same dogs could not
possibly go and return; besides it was very doubtful if I could be
provided with dogs there; and finally that the distance was great and
could take sixteen days to perform it. He added that the provisions would
be mouldy and bad and that from having to walk constantly on snowshoes I
should suffer a great deal of misery and fatigue. Notwithstanding these
assertions on the 23rd of December I left the fort with Beauparlant and a
Bois-brule, each having a sledge drawn by dogs, laden with pemmican. We
crossed an arm of the lake and entered the Little Buffalo River which is
connected with the Salt River and is about fifty yards wide at its
junction with the lake - the water is brackish.
