Several reindeer and a large flight of white geese passed to
the southward. These circumstances led us to fear for the comfort, if not
for the safety, of our absent friends. On the 4th of September we
commenced building our dwelling-house, having cut sufficient wood for the
frame of it.
In the afternoon of September the 6th we removed our tent to the summit
of a hill about three miles distant for the better observing the eclipse,
which was calculated to occur on the next morning. We were prevented
however from witnessing it by a heavy snow-storm, and the only
observation we could then make was to examine whether the temperature of
the atmosphere altered during the eclipse, but we found that both the
mercurial and spirit thermometers remained steadily at 30 degrees for a
quarter of an hour previous to its commencement, during its continuance,
and for half an hour subsequent to its termination; we remarked the wind
increased very much and the snow fell in heavier flakes just after the
estimated time of its commencement. This boisterous weather continued
until three P.M. when the wind abated and the snow changed to rain.
VISIT OF OBSERVATION TO THE UPPER PART OF COPPER-MINE RIVER.
As there was now no immediate occasion for my remaining on the spot, the
eclipse being over and the Indians having removed to their hunting
grounds, Dr. Richardson and I determined on taking a pedestrian excursion
to the Copper-Mine River, leaving Mr. Wentzel in charge of the men and to
superintend the buildings. On the morning of September the 9th we
commenced our journey under the guidance of old Keskarrah, and
accompanied by John Hepburn and Samandre, who carried our blankets,
cooking utensils, hatchets, and a small supply of dried meat. Our guide
led us from the top of one hill to the top of another, making as straight
a course to the northward as the numerous lakes with which the country is
intersected, would permit. At noon we reached a remarkable hill with
precipitous sides, named by the Copper Indians the Dog-Rib Rock, and its
latitude, 64 degrees 34 minutes 52 seconds South, was obtained. The
canoe-track passes to the eastward of this rock but we kept to the
westward as being the more direct course. From the time we quitted the
banks of the Winter River we saw only a few detached clumps of trees; but
after we passed the Dog-Rib Rock even these disappeared and we travelled
through a naked country. In the course of the afternoon Keskarrah killed
a reindeer and loaded himself with its head and skin, and our men also
carried off a few pounds of its flesh for supper; but their loads were
altogether too great to permit them to take much additional weight.
Keskarrah offered to us as a great treat the raw marrow from the hind
legs of the animal, of which all the party ate except myself and thought
it very good. I was also of the same opinion when I subsequently
conquered my then too fastidious taste. We halted for the night on the
borders of a small lake which washed the base of a ridge of sandhills
about three hundred feet high, having walked in direct distance sixteen
miles.
There were four ancient pine-trees here which did not exceed six or seven
feet in height but whose branches spread themselves out for several yards
and we gladly cropped a few twigs to make a bed and to protect us from
the frozen ground, still white from a fall of snow which took place in
the afternoon. We were about to cut down one of these trees for firewood
but our guide solicited us to spare them and made us understand by signs
that they had been long serviceable to his nation and that we ought to
content ourselves with a few of the smaller branches. As soon as we
comprehended his request we complied with it and our attendants, having
with some trouble grubbed up a sufficient quantity of roots of the dwarf
birch to make a fire, we were enabled to prepare a comfortable supper of
reindeer's meat which we despatched with the appetites which travelling
in this country never fails to ensure. We then stretched ourselves out on
the pine brush and, covered by a single blanket, enjoyed a night of sound
repose. The small quantity of bed-clothes we carried induced us to sleep
without undressing. Old Keskarrah followed a different plan; he stripped
himself to the skin and, having toasted his body for a short time over
the embers of the fire, he crept under his deer-skin and rags, previously
spread out as smoothly as possible and, coiling himself up in a circular
form, fell asleep instantly. This custom of undressing to the skin even
when lying in the open air is common to all the Indian tribes. The
thermometer at sunset stood at 29 degrees.
Resuming our journey next morning we pursued a northerly course but had
to make a considerable circuit round the western ends of two lakes whose
eastern extremities were hidden from our view. The march was very
uncomfortable as the wind was cold and there was a constant fall of snow
until noon; our guide too persisted in taking us over the summit of every
hill that lay in the route so that we had the full benefit of the breeze.
We forded two streams in the afternoon flowing between small lakes and,
being wet, did not much relish having to halt whilst Keskarrah pursued a
herd of reindeer; but there was no alternative as he set off and followed
them without consulting our wishes. The old man loaded himself with the
skin and some meat of the animal he killed in addition to his former
burden; but after walking two miles, finding his charge too heavy for his
strength, he spread the skin on the rock and deposited the meat under
some stones, intending to pick them up on our return.
