To these seas, but is contrary to the results obtained by Captain
Buchan and myself on our recent voyage to the north between Spitzbergen
and Greenland, in which sea we invariably found the water brought from
any great depth to be warmer than that at the surface.
On the 28th we tacked to avoid an extensive stream of sailing ice. The
temperature of the water fell to 39.5 degrees when we were near it, but
was at 41 degrees when at the distance of half a mile. The thermometer in
the air remained steadily at 40 degrees. Thus the proximity of this ice
was not so decidedly indicated by the decrease of the temperature of
either the air or water as I have before witnessed, which was probably
owing to the recent arrival of the stream at this point and its passing
at too quick a rate for the effectual diffusion of its chilling influence
beyond a short distance. Still the decrease in both cases was sufficient
to have given timely warning for a ship's performing any evolution that
would have prevented the coming in contact with it had the thickness of
the weather precluded a distant view of the danger.
The approach to ice would be more evidently pointed out in the Atlantic,
or wherever the surface is not so continually chilled by the passing and
the melting of ice as in this sea; and I should strongly recommend a
strict hourly attention to the thermometrical state of the water at the
surface in all parts where ships are exposed to the dangerous concussion
of sailing icebergs, as a principal means of security.
The following day our ship came near another stream of ice and the
approach to it was indicated by a decrease of the temperature of the
water at the surface from 44 to 42 degrees. A small pine-tree was picked
up much shattered by the ice. In the afternoon of the 30th a very dense
fog came on; and about six P.M. when sailing before a fresh breeze we
were suddenly involved in a heavy stream of ice. Considerable difficulty
was experienced in steering through the narrow channels between the
different masses in this foggy weather, and the ship received several
severe blows.
The water, as usual in the centre of the stream, was quite smooth, but we
heard the waves beating violently against the outer edge of the ice.
There was some earthy matter on several of the pieces, and the whole body
bore the appearance of recent separation from the land. In the space of
two hours we again got into the open sea, but had left our two consorts
far behind; they followed our track by the guns we discharged. The
temperature of the surface water was 35 degrees when amongst the ice, 38
degrees when just clear of it, and 41.5 degrees at two miles distant.
On the 4th of August, when in latitude 59 degrees 58 minutes North,
longitude 59 degrees 53 minutes West, we first fell in with large
icebergs; and in the evening were encompassed by several of considerable
magnitude, which obliged us to tack the ship in order to prevent our
getting entangled amongst them. The estimated distance from the nearest
part of the Labrador coast was then eighty-eight miles; here we tried for
soundings without gaining the bottom. The ship passed through some strong
ripplings, which evidently indicated a current, but its direction was not
ascertained. We found however by the recent observations that the ship
had been set daily to the southward since we had opened Davis Straits.
The variation of the compass was observed to be 52 degrees 41 minutes
West.
At nine P.M. brilliant coruscations of the Aurora Borealis appeared, of a
pale ochre colour with a slight tinge of red, in an arched form, crossing
the zenith from North-West to South-East, but afterwards they assumed
various shapes and had a rapid motion.
On the 5th of August a party of the officers endeavoured to get on one of
the larger icebergs, but ineffectually, owing to the steepness and
smoothness of its sides and the swell produced by its undulating motion.
This was one of the largest we saw, and Mr. Hood ascertained its height
to be one hundred and forty-nine feet; but these masses of ice are
frequently magnified to an immense size through the illusive medium of a
hazy atmosphere, and on this account their dimensions have often been
exaggerated by voyagers.
PERILOUS SITUATION ON THE SHORE OF RESOLUTION ISLAND.
In the morning of the 7th the island of Resolution was indistinctly seen
through the haze but was soon afterwards entirely hidden by a very dense
fog. The favourable breeze subsided into a perfect calm and left the ship
surrounded by loose ice. At this time the Eddystone was perceived to be
driving with rapidity towards some of the larger masses; the stern-boats
of this ship and of the Wear were despatched to assist in towing her
clear of them. At ten a momentary clearness presented the land distinctly
at the distance of two miles; the ship was quite unmanageable and under
the sole governance of the currents which ran in strong eddies between
the masses of ice. Our consorts were also seen, the Wear being within
hail and the Eddystone at a short distance from us. Two attempts were
ineffectually made to gain soundings, and the extreme density of the fog
precluded us from any other means of ascertaining the direction in which
we were driving until half-past twelve when we had the alarming view of a
barren rugged shore within a few yards towering over the mastheads.
Almost instantly afterwards the ship struck violently on a point of rocks
projecting from the island; and the ship's side was brought so near to
the shore that poles were prepared to push her off.
