We were teased by sandflies this evening although
the thermometer did not rise above 45 degrees. The country through which
we had travelled for some days consists principally of granite,
intermixed in some spots with mica-slate, often passing into clay-slate.
But the borders of Lower Carp Lake where the gneiss formation prevails
are composed of hills having less altitude, fewer precipices, and more
rounded summits. The valleys are less fertile, containing a gravelly soil
and fewer trees, so that the country has throughout a more barren aspect.
August 11.
Having caught sufficient trout, white-fish, and carp yesterday and this
morning to afford the party two hearty meals, and the men having
recovered from their fatigue, we proceeded on our journey, crossed the
Upper Carp Portage, and embarked on the lake of that name where we had
the gratification of paddling for ten miles. We put up at its termination
to fish by the advice of our guide and the following observations were
then taken: longitude 113 degrees 46 minutes 35 seconds West, variation
of the compass 36 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds East, dip 87 degrees 11
minutes 48 seconds. At this place we first perceived the north end of our
dipping-needle to pass the perpendicular line when the instrument was
faced to the west.
We had scarcely quitted the encampment next day before an Indian met us
with the agreeable communication that the hunters had made several fires
which were certain indications of their having killed reindeer. This
intelligence inspired our companions with fresh energy and they quickly
traversed the next portage and paddled through the Reindeer Lake; at the
north side of it we found the canoes of our hunters and learned from our
guide that the Indians usually leave their canoes here as the water
communication on their hunting grounds is bad. The Yellow-Knife River had
now dwindled into an insignificant rivulet and we could not trace it
beyond the next lake except as a mere brook. The latitude of its source
64 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds North, longitude 113 degrees 36 minutes 00
seconds West, and its length is one hundred and fifty-six statute miles.
Though this river is of sufficient breadth and depth for navigating in
canoes yet I conceive its course is too much interrupted by cascades and
rapids for its ever being used as a channel for the conveyance of
merchandise. Whilst the crews were employed in making a portage over the
foot of Prospect Hill we ascended to the top of it and, as it is the
highest ground in the neighbourhood, its summit, which is about five
hundred feet above the water, commands an extensive view.
Akaitcho who was here with his family pointed out to us the smoke of the
distant fires which the hunters had made. The prospect is agreeably
diversified by an intermixture of hill and valley and the appearance of
twelve lakes in different directions. On the borders of these lakes a few
thin pine groves occur, but the country in general is destitute of almost
every vegetable except a few berry-bearing shrubs and lichens, and has a
very barren aspect. The hills are composed of gneiss but their
acclivities are covered with a coarse gravelly soil. There are many large
loose stones both on their sides and summits composed of the same
materials as the solid rock.
We crossed another lake in the evening, encamped and set the nets. The
chief made a large fire to announce our situation to the hunters.
DIFFICULTIES WITH REGARD TO THE INDIAN GUIDES. REFUSAL TO PROCEED.
August 13.
We caught twenty fish this morning but they were small and furnished but
a scanty breakfast for the party. Whilst this meal was preparing our
Canadian voyagers, who had been for some days past murmuring at their
meagre diet and striving to get the whole of our little provision to
consume at once, broke out into open discontent, and several of them
threatened they would not proceed forward unless more food was given to
them. This conduct was the more unpardonable as they saw we were rapidly
approaching the fires of the hunters and that provision might soon be
expected. I therefore felt the duty incumbent on me to address them in
the strongest manner on the danger of insubordination and to assure them
of my determination to inflict the heaviest punishment on any that should
persist in their refusal to go on, or in any other way attempt to retard
the Expedition. I considered this decisive step necessary, having learned
from the gentlemen most intimately acquainted with the character of the
Canadian voyagers that they invariably try how far they can impose upon
every new master and that they will continue to be disobedient and
intractable if they once gain any ascendancy over him. I must admit
however that the present hardships of our companions were of a kind which
few could support without murmuring, and no one could witness without a
sincere pity for their sufferings.
After this discussion we went forward until sunset. In the course of the
day we crossed seven lakes and as many portages. Just as we had encamped
we were delighted to see four of the hunters arrive with the flesh of two
reindeer. This seasonable supply, though only sufficient for this
evening's and the next day's consumption, instantly revived the spirits
of our companions and they immediately forgot all their cares. As we did
not after this period experience any deficiency of food during this
journey they worked extremely well and never again reflected upon us as
they had done before for rashly bringing them into an inhospitable
country where the means of subsistence could not be procured.
