These
men say there is a communication from its eastern extremity by a chain of
lakes with a shallow river which discharges its waters into the sea. This
stream they call the Thloueetessy, and report it to be navigable for
Indian canoes only. The forms of the south and western shores are better
known from the survey of Sir Alexander Mackenzie and in consequence of
the canoes having to pass and repass along these borders annually between
Moose-Deer Island and Mackenzie's River. Our observations made the
breadth of the lake between Stony Island and the north main shore sixty
miles less than it is laid down in Arrowsmith's map; and there is also a
considerable difference in the longitude of the eastern side of the bay,
which we entered.
This lake, owing to its great depth, is seldom completely frozen over
before the last week in November and the ice, which is generally seven
feet thick, breaks up about the middle of June, three weeks later than
that of the Slave River. The only known outlet to this vast body of water
which receives so many streams on its north and south shores is the
Mackenzie River.
August 3.
We embarked at three A.M. and proceeded to the entrance of the
Yellow-Knife River of the traders, which is called by the natives
Begholodessy or River of the Toothless Fish. We found Akaitcho and the
hunters with their families encamped here. There were also several other
Indians of his tribe who intended to accompany us some distance into the
interior. This party was quickly in motion after our arrival and we were
soon surrounded by a fleet of seventeen Indian canoes. In company with
them we paddled up the river, which is one hundred and fifty yards wide,
and in an hour came to a cascade of five feet where we were compelled to
make a portage of one hundred and fifty-eight yards. We next crossed a
dilatation of the river, about six miles in length, upon which the name
of Lake Prosperous was bestowed. Its shores, though scantily supplied
with wood, are very picturesque.
Akaitcho caused himself to be paddled by his slave, a young man of the
Dog-Rib nation whom he had taken by force from his friends; when he
thought himself however out of reach of our observation he laid aside a
good deal of his state and assisted in the labour; and after a few days'
further acquaintance with us he did not hesitate to paddle in our
presence or even carry his canoe on the portages. Several of the canoes
were managed by women who proved to be noisy companions, for they
quarrelled frequently, and the weakest was generally profuse in her
lamentations, which were not at all diminished when the husband attempted
to settle the difference by a few blows from his paddle.
An observation near the centre of the lake gave 114 degrees 13 minutes 39
seconds West and 33 degrees 8 minutes 06 seconds East variation.
Leaving the lake we ascended a very strong rapid and arrived at a range
of three steep cascades situated in the bend of the river. Here we made a
portage of one thousand three hundred yards over a rocky hill which
received the name of the Bowstring Portage from its shape. We found that
the Indians had greatly the advantage of us in this operation; the men
carried their small canoes, the women and children the clothes and
provisions, and at the end of the portage they were ready to embark,
whilst it was necessary for our people to return four times before they
could transport the weighty cargo with which we were burdened. After
passing through another expansion of the river and over the Steep Portage
of one hundred and fifteen yards we encamped on a small rocky isle, just
large enough to hold our party, and the Indians took possession of an
adjoining rock. We were now thirty miles from Fort Providence.
As soon as the tents were pitched the officers and men were divided into
watches for the night, a precaution intended to be taken throughout the
journey, not merely to prevent our being surprised by strangers but also
to show our companions that we were constantly on our guard. The chief,
who suffered nothing to escape his observation, remarked that he should
sleep without anxiety among the Esquimaux for he perceived no enemy could
surprise us.
After supper we retired to rest but our sleep was soon interrupted by the
Indians joining in loud lamentations over a sick child whom they supposed
to be dying. Dr. Richardson however immediately went to the boy and
administered some medicine which relieved his pain and put a stop to
their mourning. The temperatures this day were at four A.M. 54 degrees,
three P.M. 72 degrees, at seven P.M. 65 degrees.
On the 4th we crossed a small lake and passed in succession over the
Blueberry Cascade and Double Fall Portages where the river falls over
ridges of rocks that completely obstruct the passages for canoes. We came
to three strong rapids beyond these barriers, which were surmounted by
the aid of the poles and lines, and then to a bend of the river in which
the cascades were so frequent that to avoid them we carried the canoes
into a chain of small lakes. We entered them by a portage of nine hundred
and fifty paces, and during the afternoon traversed three other grassy
lakes and encamped on the banks of the river, at the end of the
Yellow-Knife Portage, of three hundred and fifty paces. This day's work
was very laborious to our men. Akaitcho however had directed his party to
assist them in carrying their burdens on the portages, which they did
cheerfully.
