Some of them are two hundred feet high and
three or four feet in diameter. At nine P.M. we landed and encamped but,
finding ourselves in a nest of mosquitoes, we continued our journey
before daybreak; and at eight A.M. emerged into the Athabasca Lake. A
strong wind agitated this sea of fresh water which however we crossed
without any accident, and landed on the north side of it at Fort
Chipewyan where we had the satisfaction of finding our companions in good
health, and of experiencing that sympathy in our anxiety on the state of
affairs, which was only to be expected from those who were to share our
future fortunes.
CHAPTER 7.
DEPARTURE FROM CHIPEWYAN.
DIFFICULTIES OF THE VARIOUS NAVIGATIONS OF THE RIVERS AND LAKES, AND OF
THE PORTAGES.
SLAVE LAKE AND FORT PROVIDENCE.
SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS, AND DISCONTENT OF THE CANADIAN VOYAGERS.
DIFFICULTIES WITH REGARD TO THE INDIAN GUIDES.
REFUSAL TO PROCEED.
VISIT OF OBSERVATION TO THE UPPER PART OF COPPER-MINE RIVER.
RETURN TO THE WINTER QUARTERS OF FORT ENTERPRISE.
DEPARTURE FROM CHIPEWYAN.
July 18, 1820.
Early this morning the stores were distributed to the three canoes. Our
stock of provision unfortunately did not amount to more than sufficient
for one day's consumption exclusive of two barrels of flour, three cases
of preserved meats, some chocolate, arrowroot, and portable soup, which
we had brought from England and intended to reserve for our journey to
the coast the next season. Seventy pounds of moose meat and a little
barley were all that Mr. Smith was enabled to give us. It was gratifying
however to perceive that this scarcity of food did not depress the
spirits of our Canadian companions who cheerfully loaded their canoes and
embarked in high glee after they had received the customary dram. At noon
we bade farewell to our kind friend Mr. Smith. The crews commenced a
lively paddling song on quitting the shore which was continued until we
had lost sight of the houses. We soon reached the western boundary of the
lakem and at two entered the Stony River, one of the discharges of the
Athabasca Lake into the Slave Lake and, having a favouring current,
passed swiftly along. This narrow stream is confined between low swampy
banks which support willows, dwarf birch, and alder. At five we passed
its conflux with the Peace River. The Slave River, formed by the union of
these streams, is about three-quarters of a mile wide. We descended this
magnificent river with much rapidity and, after passing through several
narrow channels, formed by an assemblage of islands, crossed a spot where
the waters had a violent whirling motion which, when the river is low, is
said to subside into a dangerous rapid; on the present occasion no other
inconvenience was felt than the inability of steering the canoes which
were whirled about in every direction by the eddies until the current
carried them beyond their influence. We encamped at seven on the swampy
bank of the river but had scarcely pitched the tents before we were
visited by a terrible thunderstorm; the rain fell in torrents and the
violence of the wind caused the river to overflow its banks so that we
were completely flooded. Swarms of mosquitoes succeeded the storm and
their tormenting stings, superadded to other inconveniences, induced us
to embark and, after taking a hasty supper, to pursue our voyage down the
stream during the night.
At six on the following morning we passed the Reindeer Islands and at ten
reached the entrance of the Dog River where we halted to set the fishing
nets. These were examined in the evening but, to our mortification, we
obtained only four small trout and were compelled to issue part of our
preserved meats for supper. The latitude of the mouth of Dog River was
observed 59 degrees 52 minutes 16 seconds North.
DIFFICULTIES OF THE VARIOUS NAVIGATIONS OF THE RIVERS AND LAKES, AND OF
THE PORTAGES.
The nets were taken up at daylight but they furnished only a solitary
pike. We lost no time in embarking and crossed the crooked channel of the
Dog Rapid when two of the canoes came in such violent contact with each
other that the sternmost had its bow broken off. We were fortunately near
the shore or the disabled canoe would have sunk. The injury being
repaired in two hours we again embarked and, having descended another
rapid, arrived at the Cassette Portage of four hundred and sixty paces,
over which the cargoes and canoes were carried in about twenty-six
minutes. We next passed through a narrow channel full of rapids, crossed
the Portage d'Embarras of seventy yards, and the portage of the Little
Rock of three hundred yards, at which another accident happened to one of
the canoes by the bowman slipping and letting it fall upon a rock and
breaking it in two. Two hours were occupied in sewing the detached pieces
together and covering the seam with pitch but, this being done, it was as
effective as before. After leaving this place we soon came to the next
portage of two hundred and seventy-three paces; and shortly afterwards to
the Mountain Portage of one hundred and twenty, which is appropriately
named as the path leads over the summit of a high hill. This elevated
situation commands a very grand and picturesque view for some miles along
the river which at this part is about a mile wide.
We next crossed a portage of one hundred and twenty yards; and then the
Pelican Portage of eight hundred paces. Mr. Back took an accurate sketch
of the interesting scenery which the river presents at this place. After
descending six miles farther we came to the last portage on the route to
Slave Lake which we crossed and encamped in its lower end.
