The north side of the Methye Portage is in latitude 56 degrees 41 minutes
40 seconds North and longitude 109 degrees 52 minutes 0 seconds West. It
is of course one hundred and twenty-four miles from Isle a la Crosse and
considered as a branch of the Missinippi, five hundred and ninety-two
miles from the Frog Portage. The Clear Water River passing through the
valley, described above, evidently rises not far to the eastward. The
height, computed by the same mode as that of the Echiamamis, by allowing
a foot for each mile of distance and six feet on an average for each fall
and rapid, is two thousand four hundred and sixty-seven feet above the
level of the sea, admitting it to be nine hundred feet above the Clear
Water River. The country in a line between it and the mouth of
Mackenzie's River is a continual descent, although to the eastward of
that line there may be several heights between it and the Arctic Sea. To
the eastward the lands descend to Hudson's Bay, and to the westward also,
till the Athabasca River cuts through it, from whence it ascends to the
Rocky Mountains. Daring was the spirit of enterprise that first led
Commerce with her cumbrous train from the waters of Hudson's Bay to those
of the Arctic Sea, across an obstacle to navigation so stupendous as
this; and persevering has been the industry which drew riches from a
source so remote.
HIS JOURNEY TO CHIPEWYAN.
On the 8th two men arrived and informed us that they had brought us our
ten bags of pemmican from Isle a la Crosse, but that they were found to
be rotten. Thus were we unexpectedly deprived of the most essential of
our stores for we knew Fort Chipewyan to be destitute of provisions and
that Mr. Franklin depended upon us for a supply, whereas enough did not
remain for our own use. On the 9th the canoes and cargoes reached the
north side of the portage. Our people had selected two bags of pemmican
less mouldy than the rest which they left on the beach. Its decay was
caused by some defect in the mode of mixing it.
On the 10th we embarked in the Clear Water River and proceeded down the
current. The hills, the banks, and bed of the river were composed of fine
yellow sand with some limestone rocks. The surface soil was alluvial. At
eight A.M. we passed a portage on which the limestone rocks were
singularly scattered through the woods, bearing the appearance of houses
and turrets overgrown with moss. The earth emitted a hollow sound and the
river was divided by rocks into narrow crooked channels, every object
indicating that some convulsion had disturbed the general order of nature
at this place. We had passed a portage above it and after two long
portages below it we encamped. Near the last was a small stream so
strongly impregnated with sulphur as to taint the air to a great distance
around it. We saw two brown bears on the hills in the course of the day.
At daylight on the 11th we embarked. The hills continued on both sides of
the mouth of the river, varying from eight hundred to one thousand feet
in height. They declined to the banks in long green slopes diversified by
woody mounds and copses. The pines were not here in thick impenetrable
masses but perched aloft in single groups on the heights or shrouded by
the livelier hues of the poplar and willow.
We passed the mouth of the Red Willow River on the south bank flowing
through a deep ravine. It is the continuation of the route by the Pembina
before mentioned. At noon we entered the majestic Athabasca or Elk River.
Its junction with the Clear Water River is called the Forks. Its banks
were inaccessible cliffs, apparently of clay and stones about two hundred
feet high, and its windings in the south were encircled by high
mountains. Its breadth exceeded half a mile and was swelled to a mile in
many places by long muddy islands in the middle covered with trees. No
more portages interrupted our course but a swift current hurried us
towards the quarter in which our anticipated discoveries were to
commence. The passing cliffs returned a loud confusion of echoes to the
sprightly canoe song and the dashing paddles and the eagles, watching
with half-closed eyes on the pine-tops, started from their airy rest and
prepared their drowsy pinions for the flight.
About twenty miles from the Forks are some salt pits and plains, said to
be very extensive. The height of the banks was reduced to twenty or
thirty feet and the hills ranged themselves at an increased distance from
the banks in the same variety as those of the Clear Water River. At
sunset we encamped on a small sandy island but the next morning made a
speedy retreat to the canoes, the water having nearly overflown our
encampment. We passed two deserted settlements of the fur traders on
opposite banks at a place called Pierre au Calumet. Beyond it the hills
disappeared and the banks were no longer visible above the trees. The
river carries away yearly large portions of soil which increases its
breadth and diminishes its depth, rendering the water so muddy as to be
scarcely drinkable. Whole forests of timber are drifted down the stream
and choke up the channels between the islands at its mouth. We observed
the traces of herds of buffaloes where they had crossed the river, the
trees being trodden down and strewed as if by a whirlwind.
