Needle which was ascertained to be 74
degrees 37 minutes 48 seconds, on which occasion a difference of eight
degrees and a half was perceived between the observations when the face
of the instrument was changed from the east to the west, the amount being
the greatest when it was placed with the face to the west. But on the 8th
a westerly wind caused a cloudless sky which enabled us to place the
transit instrument in the meridian and to ascertain the variation of the
compass to be 27 degrees 50 minutes west. The sky becoming cloudy in the
afternoon prevented our obtaining the corresponding observations to those
gained in the morning; and the next day an impervious fog obscured the
sky until noon. On the evening of this day we had the gratification of
welcoming our absent companion Mr. Back. His return to our society was
hailed with sincere pleasure by everyone and removed a weight of anxiety
from my mind. It appears that he had come down to the beach at Caistor
just as the ships were passing by and had applied to some boatmen to
convey him on board, which might have been soon accomplished but they,
discovering the emergency of his case, demanded an exorbitant reward
which he was not at the instant prepared to satisfy; and in consequence
they positively refused to assist him. Though he had travelled nine
successive days, almost without rest, he could not be prevailed upon to
withdraw from the agreeable scene of a ballroom in which he joined us
until a late hour.
On the 10th, the rain having ceased, the observations for ascertaining
the dip of the needle were repeated; and the results compared with the
former ones gave a mean of 74 degrees 33 minutes 20 seconds. Nearly the
same differences were remarked in reversing the face of the instrument as
before. An attempt was also made to ascertain the magnetic force but the
wind blew too strong for procuring the observation to any degree of
accuracy.
The fineness of the following day induced us to set up the different
instruments for examination and to try how nearly the observations made
by each of them would agree; but a squall passed over just before noon,
accompanied by heavy rain, and the hoped-for favourable opportunity was
entirely lost. In the intervals between the observations, and at every
opportunity, my companions were occupied in those pursuits to which their
attention had been more particularly directed in my instructions. Whilst
Dr. Richardson was collecting and examining the various specimens of
marine plants, of which these islands furnish an abundant and diversified
supply, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood took views and sketches of the surrounding
scenery which is extremely picturesque in many parts, and wants only the
addition of trees to make it beautiful. The hills present the bold
character of rugged sterility, whilst the valleys at this season are
clothed with luxuriant verdure.
It was not till the 14th that, by appointment, the boatmen were to
assemble at the house of Mr. Geddes to engage to accompany the
Expedition. Several persons collected but, to my great mortification, I
found they were all so strongly possessed with the fearful apprehension
either that great danger would attend the service, or that we should
carry them further than they would agree to go, that not a single man
would engage with us; some of them however said they would consider the
subject and give me an answer on the following day. This indecisive
conduct was extremely annoying to me especially as the next evening was
fixed for the departure of the ships.
At the appointed time on the following morning four men only presented
themselves and these, after much hesitation, engaged to accompany the
Expedition to Fort Chipewyan if they should be required so far. The
bowmen and steersmen were to receive forty pounds wages annually and the
middle men thirty-five pounds. They stipulated to be sent back to the
Orkney Islands free of expense and to receive their pay until the time of
their arrival. Only these few men could be procured although our
requisition had been sent to almost every island, even as far as the
northernmost point of Ronaldsha. I was much amused with the extreme
caution these men used before they would sign the agreement; they
minutely scanned all our intentions, weighed every circumstance, looked
narrowly into the plan of our route, and still more circumspectly to the
prospect of return. Such caution on the part of the northern mariners
forms a singular contrast with the ready and thoughtless manner in which
an English seaman enters upon any enterprise, however hazardous, without
inquiring or desiring to know where he is going or what he is going
about.
The brig Harmony, belonging to the Moravian Missionary Society and bound
to their settlement at Nain on the coast of Labrador, was lying at
anchor. With the view of collecting some Esquimaux words and sentences,
or gaining any information respecting the manners and habits of that
people, Doctor Richardson and myself paid her a visit. We found the
passengers who were going out as Missionaries extremely disposed to
communicate; but as they only spoke the German and Esquimaux languages,
of which we were ignorant, our conversation was necessarily much
confined; by the aid however of an Esquimaux and German Dictionary some
few words were collected which we considered might be useful. There were
on board a very interesting girl and a young man who were natives of
Disco in old Greenland; both of them had fair complexions, rather
handsome features, and a lively manner; the former was going to be
married to a resident Missionary and the latter to officiate in that
character.
