Mr. Smith
supposed that my appearance amongst them without the means of satisfying
any of their desires would give them an unfavourable impression
respecting the Expedition which would make them indifferent to exertion
if it did not even cause them to withdraw from their engagements.
The establishments at this place, Forts Chipewyan and Wedderburne, the
chief posts of the Companies in this department, are conveniently
situated for communicating with the Slave and Peace Rivers from whence
the canoes assemble in the spring and autumn; on the first occasion they
bring the collection of furs which has been made at the different
outposts during the winter; and at the latter season they receive a
supply of stores for the equipment of the Indians in their vicinity. Fort
Wedderburne is a small house which was constructed on Coal Island about
five years ago when the Hudson's Bay Company recommenced trading in this
part of the country. Fort Chipewyan has been built many years and is an
establishment of very considerable extent, conspicuously situated on a
rocky point of the northern shore; it has a tower which can be seen at a
considerable distance. This addition was made about eight years ago to
watch the motions of the Indians who intended, as it was then reported,
to destroy the house and all its inhabitants. They had been instigated to
this rash design by the delusive stories of one among them who had
acquired great influence over his companions by his supposed skill in
necromancy. This fellow had prophesied that there would soon be a
complete change in the face of their country, that fertility and plenty
would succeed to the present sterility, and that the present race of
white inhabitants, unless they became subservient to the Indians, would
be removed and their place be filled by other traders who would supply
their wants in every possible manner. The poor deluded wretches,
imagining they would hasten this happy change by destroying their present
traders, of whose submission there was no prospect, threatened to
extirpate them. None of these menaces however were put in execution. They
were probably deterred from the attempt by perceiving that a most
vigilant guard was kept against them.
The portion of this extensive lake which is near the establishments is
called The Lake of the Hills, not improperly as the northern shore and
the islands are high and rocky. The south side however is quite level,
consisting of alluvial land, subject to be flooded, lying betwixt the
different mouths of the Elk River and much intersected by water. The
rocks of the northern shore are composed of syenite over which the soil
is thinly spread; it is however sufficient to support a variety of firs
and poplars and many shrubs, lichens and mosses. The trees were now in
full foliage, the plants generally in flower, and the whole scene quite
enlivening. There can scarcely be a higher gratification than that which
is enjoyed in this country in witnessing the rapid change which takes
place in the course of a few days in the spring; scarcely does the snow
disappear from the ground before the trees are clothed with thick
foliage, the shrubs open their leaves and put forth their variegated
flowers, and the whole prospect becomes animating. The spaces between the
rocky hills, being for the most part swampy, support willows and a few
poplars. These spots are the favourite resort of the mosquitoes, which
incessantly torment the unfortunate persons who have to pass through
them.
Some of the hills attain an elevation of five or six hundred feet at the
distance of a mile from the house; and from their summits a very
picturesque view is commanded of the lake and of the surrounding country.
The land above the Great Point at the confluence of the main stream of
the Elk River is six or seven hundred feet high and stretches in a
southern direction behind Pierre au Calumet. Opposite to that
establishment, on the west side of the river, at some distance in the
interior, the Bark Mountain rises and ranges to the North-West until it
reaches Clear Lake, about thirty miles to the southward of these forts,
and then goes to the south-westward. The Cree Indians generally procure
from this range their provision as well as the bark for making their
canoes. There is another range of hills on the south shore which runs
towards the Peace River.
The residents of these establishments depend for subsistence almost
entirely on the fish which this lake affords; they are usually caught in
sufficient abundance throughout the winter though at the distance of
eighteen miles from the houses; on the thawing of the ice the fish remove
into some smaller lakes and the rivers to the south shore. Though they
are nearer to the forts than in winter it frequently happens that high
winds prevent the canoes from transporting them thither and the residents
are kept in consequence without a supply of food for two or three days
together. The fish caught in the net are the attihhawmegh, trout, carp,
methye, and pike.*
(*Footnote. See above.)
The traders also get supplied by the hunters with buffalo and moose-deer
meat (which animals are found at some distance from the forts) but the
greater part of it is either in a dried state or pounded ready for making
pemmican and is required for the men whom they keep travelling during the
winter to collect the furs from the Indians, and for the crews of the
canoes on their outward passage to the depots in spring.
