Having now the guidance of the old Canadian we sent forward the Indian
and one of our men with letters to the gentleman at the Athabasca Lake.
The rest of the party set off afterwards and kept along the river until
ten when we branched off by portages into the Embarras River, the usual
channel of communication in canoes with the lake. It is a narrow and
serpentine stream confined between alluvial banks which support pines,
poplars and willows. We had not advanced far before we overtook the two
men despatched by us this morning. The stormy weather had compelled them
to encamp as there was too much drifting of the snow for any attempt to
cross the lake. We were obliged, though most reluctantly, to follow their
example but comforted ourselves with the reflection that this was the
first time we had been stopped by the weather during our long journey
which was so near at an end. The gale afterwards increased, the squalls
at night became very violent, disburdened the trees of the snow and gave
us the benefit of a continual fall of patches from them, in addition to
the constant shower. We therefore quickly finished our suppers and
retired under the shelter of our blankets.
ARRIVAL AT FORT CHIPEWYAN.
March 26.
The boisterous weather continued through the night and it was not before
six this morning that the wind became apparently moderate and the snow
ceased. Two of the Canadians were immediately sent off with letters to
the gentlemen at Fort Chipewyan. After breakfast we also started but our
Indian friend, having a great indisposition to move in such weather,
remained by the fire. We soon quitted the river and, after crossing a
portage, a small lake and a point of land, came to the borders of the
Mammawee Lake. We then found our error as to the strength of the wind,
and that the gale still blew violently and there was so much drifting of
the snow as to cover the distant objects by which our course could be
directed. We fortunately got a glimpse through this cloud of a cluster of
islands in the direction of the houses, and decided on walking towards
them; but in doing this we suffered very much from the cold and were
obliged to halt under the shelter of them and await the arrival of our
Indian guide. He conducted us between these islands, over a small lake,
and by a swampy river into the Athabasca Lake, from whence the
establishments were visible. At four P.M. we had the pleasure of arriving
at Fort Chipewyan and of being received by Messrs. Keith and Black, the
partners of the North-West Company in charge, in the most kind and
hospitable manner. Thus terminated a winter's journey of eight hundred
and fifty-seven miles, in the progress of which there was a great
intermixture of agreeable and disagreeable circumstances. Could the
amount of each be balanced I suspect the latter would much preponderate;
and amongst these the initiation into walking in snowshoes must be
considered as prominent. The suffering it occasions can be but faintly
imagined by a person who thinks upon the inconvenience of marching with a
weight of between two and three pounds constantly attached to galled feet
and swelled ankles. Perseverance and practice only will enable the novice
to surmount this pain.
The next evil is the being constantly exposed to witness the wanton and
unnecessary cruelty of the men to their dogs, especially those of the
Canadians who beat them unmercifully and habitually vent on them the most
dreadful and disgusting imprecations. There are other inconveniences
which, though keenly felt during the day's journey, are speedily
forgotten when stretched out in the encampment before a large fire, you
enjoy the social mirth of your companions who usually pass the evening in
recounting their former feats in travelling. At this time the Canadians
are always cheerful and merry and the only bar to their comfort arises
from the frequent interruption occasioned by the dogs who are constantly
prowling about the circle and snatching at every kind of food that
happens to be within their reach. These useful animals are a comfort to
them afterwards by the warmth they impart when lying down by their side
or feet as they usually do. But the greatest gratifications a traveller
in these regions enjoys are derived from the hospitable welcome he
receives at every trading post, however poor the means of the host may
be; and from being disrobed even for a short time of the trappings of a
voyager and experiencing the pleasures of cleanness.
The following are the estimated distances in statute miles which Mr. Back
and I had travelled since our departure from Cumberland:
From Cumberland House to Carlton House: 263.
From Carlton House to Isle a la Crosse: 230.
From Isle a la Crosse to north side of the Methye Portage: 124.
From the Methye Portage to Fort Chipewyan: 240.
Total: 857 miles.
CHAPTER 5.
TRANSACTIONS AT FORT CHIPEWYAN.
ARRIVAL OF DR. RICHARDSON AND MR. HOOD.
PREPARATIONS FOR OUR JOURNEY TO THE NORTHWARD.
TRANSACTIONS AT FORT CHIPEWYAN.
March 26, 1820.
On the day after our arrival at Fort Chipewyan we called upon Mr.
MacDonald, the gentleman in charge of the Hudson's Bay Establishment
called Fort Wedderburne, and delivered to him Governor Williams' circular
letter which desired that every assistance should be given to further our
progress, and a statement of the requisitions which we should have to
make on his post.
Our first object was to obtain some certain information respecting our
future route and accordingly we received from one of the North-West
Company's interpreters, named Beaulieu, a half-breed who had been brought
up amongst the Dog-ribbed and Copper Indians, some satisfactory
information which we afterwards found tolerably correct respecting the
mode of reaching the Copper-Mine River which he had descended a
considerable way, as well as of the course of that river to its mouth.
The Copper Indians however he said would be able to give us more accurate
information as to the latter part of its course as they occasionally
pursue it to the sea.
